VOL.201 MARCH 2025
Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan Sake Production in Nada, Known for Numerous Renowned Sake Brands

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The Nada Gogo¹ area consists of five regions, each with a place name with ending in “go(郷),” along the Osaka Bay coastline, spanning from the Nada district in Kobe City to Nishinomiya City in Hyogo Prefecture.
Photo: Nadagogo Brewers Association

Nada Gogo¹, or ‘Five villages of Nada,’ known for producing numerous renowned sake brands under the name ‘Nada no Sake’ (Nada’s sake) is home to many sake breweries and is one of Japan’s leading sake production regions. It boasts the highest sake production volume (as of fiscal 2023 statistics)² and is blessed with the ideal conditions for sake-making, such as high-quality rice and water, as well as skilled artisans. The area has a long history and tradition of sake brewing. We spoke with FUJII Atsushi of the Nadagogo Brewers Association about sake production in this region.

Nada’s sake is often described as ‘otoko-zake’ (male sake) due to its crisp and dry flavor. According to FUJII, what defines this distinct taste is the Miyamizu spring water, sourced from the subterranean water of Mount Rokko³, which towers to the north of the Nada region. “Unlike the soft water commonly found in Japan, Miyamizu is medium-hard water, which results in faster fermentation and creates the bold, powerful flavor of Nada’s sake.”

Nada’s sake brewing has a history of approximately 700 years. The use of Miyamizu as brewing water contributed to the improvement of sake quality, and this played a significant role in the remarkable development of Nada’s sake brewing around the 18th century.

“Sake production in Nada Gogo is said to have significantly developed as an industry after the 18th century. This growth was driven by several factors, including the discovery of Miyamizu spring water and the region’s advanced water transport system, which made it easier to ship large quantities of sake by boat to major consumption centers such as Osaka and Edo (now Tokyo),” comments FUJII.

“In addition, the closeness of high-quality sake rice fields, the ability to quickly mill large quantities of rice using watermills, and many other favorable conditions contributed to the region’s growth. At that time, large ships known as ‘tarukaisen,’ which specialized in transporting sake barrels, departed from nearby ports in Nada, Kobe, and Nishinomiya to deliver large quantities of sake to the major cities. It is said that up to 80% of the sake consumed in Edo, the largest city of the time, came from Nada. This centuries-old history and tradition of sake brewing has been passed down and continues to produce many renowned sake brands to this day.”

The people who played an essential role in establishing Nada’s sake brewing methods and producing renowned sake were the brew masters, Tamba Toji. The Tamba Toji were a group of artisans from the area around what is now Tamba Sasayama City in Hyogo Prefecture. From spring to summer, they worked in agriculture, and in the fall and winter, when it was time to brew sake, they would come to Nada to work as seasonal brewers.

“Sake from the Itami⁴ region, such as Kenbishi and Otokoyama, which were created between the 17th and 18th centuries, were well-known sake produced by the Tamba Toji,” says FUJII. “The Tamba Toji passed down their brewing techniques through multiple generations and were invaluable figures who also taught the brewing methods to the craftsmen at the sake breweries.”

Although the Nada Gogo region remains one of Japan’s largest sake-producing areas, many sake breweries suffered significant damage during the 1995 Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake⁵, marking a major turning point.

“During the earthquake, many old facilities collapsed, and some brewers left the sake-making business. The number of Tamba Toji also significantly decreased, but the remaining brewers have been dedicated to passing on Nada’s sake brewing traditions, including training craftsmen within their own breweries.”

Currently, the Nadagogo Brewers Association is actively working on promoting Japanese sake to a wider audience, focusing on overseas promotion and supporting the development and diversification of products by individual breweries.

“Recently, we have been approaching new customer segments, such as setting up booths at local rugby events. We are also planning activities to share the region’s sake brewing history and culture in preparation for Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, Japan. The sake breweries of Nada Gogo are compactly located within around a 12-kilometer range, extending east to west, and it is possible to visit several breweries on foot while strolling around,” says FUJII.

“Nada’s sake, known for its bold flavor and sharp finish, pairs excellently with food. When asked about suitable dishes, I always say that since sake is made from rice, it pairs well with any dish that features rice as a staple. It also pairs wonderfully with Kobe beef steaks, one of Japan’s top wagyu brands, so I hope visitors will enjoy it when in Nada.”

• 1. The name of the sake breweries located along the coastline of approximately 12 kilometers from Imazu in Nishinomiya City to Nada Ward in Kobe City, Hyogo Prefecture. From east to west, the five regions are: Imazu-go, Nishinomiya-go, Uozaki-go, Mikage-go, and Nishi-go, each representing a cluster of small villages.
• 2. Information on sake production and related conditions - National Tax Agency
• 3. Mount Rokko (931 meters above sea level) is the central mountain of the Rokko mountain range in the southeastern part of Hyogo Prefecture.
• 4. A prosperous region for sake production during the Edo period (early 17th to mid-late 19th century), with prominent sake brands of that time including Kenbishi and Otokoyama, located in present-day Itami City, Hyogo Prefecture.
• 5. The disaster caused by the earthquake that struck on January 17, 1995 (Great Hanshin Earthquake), which affected the Hanshin region, centered around Kobe City. The earthquake resulted in approximately 6,400 deaths, about 249,000 homes completely or partially destroyed, and about 7,100 homes completely or partially burned. It also caused significant damage to railways, highways, and other infrastructure.

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