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How did curry rice come to be widely enjoyed as one of Japan’s national dishes? We spoke with an expert who spent many years working at a seasoning manufacturer that produces curry spices and ready-made curry to explore the history of curry rice in Japan.

KONO Yoshitomi, former executive board member of a Japanese curry manufacturers association, shared insights into the history of curry rice from the perspective of curry seasoning development. KONO was long involved in the industry, having worked at a seasoning manufacturer that produces goods such as commercial-use curry roux.¹

“Stewed dishes using a variety of powdered spices have long existed worldwide, especially in Southeast Asia, and are collectively referred to as ‘curry.’ The curry rice commonly eaten in Japan is made using curry roux, which combines powdered spices with more than ten times the amount of roasted flour. This creates a thick curry soup into which meat and vegetables are added, and the dish is served over steamed rice. Japanese curry rice is a type of curry and can be considered a Japanese dish.”

The history of curry rice in Japan began in the 19th century. “In the past, Britain colonized Southeast Asia, a major spice-producing region, and governed India directly. In Britain, there was a stew made of meat and vegetables using a roux of flour sautéed in butter. Toward the end of the 18th century, powdered spices brought back from India were added to this dish. Because blending the spices was difficult, the demand for pre-mixed spice powders grew, leading to the establishment of companies producing and selling curry powder² in Britain in the late 18th century. In the early 19th century, curry powder had become common in British households. This curry powder was later introduced to Japan, giving rise to Japanese curry rice—a dish made by serving cooked curry over rice,” KONO explains.

The introduction of curry powder to Japan led to the appearance of rice curry³ in yoshoku restaurants (serving Japanese-style Western cuisine); however, it was not yet common as a home-cooked dish at that time. “The recipe for curry rice appeared in cookbooks such as Seiyo Ryori-tsu (Connoisseur of Western-style Cooking), published in 1872. Still, at the time, it was considered a special dish served in yoshoku restaurants and had not yet become a regular meal in ordinary households.

“In 1905, a pharmaceutical wholesaler specializing in Kampo (traditional Japanese herbal medicine) medicinal herbs and herbal remedies⁴ developed and launched Japan’s first domestically produced curry powder. This milestone marked the entry of leading Japanese food manufacturers into the curry powder market—a presence that continues to this day,” says KONO.

Initially, curry rice was mainly prepared using curry powder, but around 1930, the introduction of solid curry roux that could simply be dissolved to add flavor and thickness significantly changed how it was made. In 1950, after the Second World War, further improvements led to the development of a solid roux shaped like a chocolate bar that dissolved easily without clumping and added richness and umami. This innovation accelerated the spread of curry rice as a home-cooked dish.

Curry rice made with meat and vegetables is highly nutritious and, due to the simplicity of serving it with rice, was adopted in school lunches. During Japan’s period of rapid economic growth,⁵ even more convenient instant foods, such as ready-to-eat pouch curries that only need to be heated and poured over rice, became widely integrated into everyday life.

“Spices brought from India made their way to Japan via Britain and eventually evolved into curry rice, a yoshoku dish. Curry rice will no doubt continue to be cherished by many. If you have the chance to visit Japan, I highly recommend trying this iconic Japanese dish, which has undergone such a rich transformation.”

• 1. A mixture of flour sautéed in butter or other fats and blended with curry powder. It is used as a thickening agent for sauces and soups.
• 2. Refers to C&B curry powder produced by CROSSE & BLACKWELL.
• 3. Equivalent to curry rice.
• 4. A traditional herbal medicine shop that prepares crude drugs and sells Kampo.
• 5. The period from around 1955 to 1973 when Japan experienced rapid economic growth.

By TANAKA Nozomi
Photo: PIXTA

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