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Japanese sake (nihonshu) pairs well with different dishes depending on its taste. We spoke with YANAGIHARA Naoyuki, the headmaster and chief instructor of a cooking school specializing in Japanese cuisine and the study of cha-kaiseki¹ (tea ceremony cuisine), about dishes that complement sake.

“The origin of sake is unclear. However, according to the records in Gishi-Wajin-den² (Account of the People of Wa in the Chronicle of Wei), it is believed that sake made from rice existed in Japan as early as the 3rd century and eventually evolved uniquely into what we have today. During the Nara period (712–794), there was a governmental organization called Zoushushi at the Heijo Palace, responsible for producing sake and vinegar. This indicates that sake brewing was already a formalized activity by the 8th century,” says YANAGIHARA.

“Initially, the sake produced was similar to today's doburoku³ (a type of unrefined sake). However, by the Muromachi period (1336–1573, with various theories about the exact dates), the development of a technique called morohaku⁴, which involved fermenting both koji mold and kakemai⁵ rice, led to the refinement of sake, bringing it closer to the clear sake we drink today.”

YANAGIHARA explains that, as sake evolved over time, Japanese cuisine also underwent changes.

“In fact, sake and Japanese cuisine have evolved together, closely intertwined and influencing each other along the way. The Japanese word kondate, which corresponds to ‘menu’ in other languages, originates from the custom of serving a single dish (sakana⁸) alongside a cup of sake (ikkon). This illustrates just how inseparable Japanese cuisine and sake are,” comments YANAGIHARA.

“During the Heian period (from 794 to late 12th century, with various theories about the exact dates), sake was served at noble banquets (daikyo cuisine⁹). In the Muromachi period, honzen cuisine¹⁰, which was established within the samurai society, also featured sake served alongside the dishes.

“It was in the Edo period(from the early 17th century to the mid-late 19th century) that sake culture truly flourished. By the latter half of the 17th century, restaurants became more common in urban areas, and the enjoyment of sake spread among the general public, with Japanese-style tea houses (chaya¹¹) becoming popular gathering spots. Dining evolved from a necessity for survival into a source of enjoyment, leading to the development of the culture of sake no sakana—dishes specifically paired with sake.”

Until around the 16th century, sake was sweeter than it is today. As a result, it was paired with slightly sweet side dishes known as kuchitori¹², including jellied dishes¹³ such as yokan¹⁴ and slightly sweetened simmered kelp.

“As the polishing technology for rice advanced and sake became more refined, the taste shifted to a drier style with fewer off-flavors. As a result, kuchitori was no longer a suitable pairing, and kuchigawari¹⁶ (meaning a substitute for kuchitori) began to be offered instead. These dishes, which paired well with dry sake, included a variety of dishes such as sunomono¹⁷ (vinegared food), yakimono¹⁸ (grilled dishes), and sansai ae¹⁹ (wild vegetable salad), among others.”

The advancement of sake brewing techniques had one other significant impact on Japanese cuisine.

“In Japan’s brewing culture, koji²⁰ is essential in all production. As sake brewing technology evolved, the techniques for making condiments used in Japanese cuisine also advanced. Soy sauce (shoyu), miso, and mirin²¹ all benefited from the development of sake brewing techniques, allowing them to evolve together. These are called fermented condiments, and they are essential in Japanese cuisine.”

YANAGIHARA believes that the excellent relationship between sake and Japanese cuisine may be partly due to the shared aspect of fermentation. “Unlike foreign cuisines, which often build flavors with oils and spices, Japanese cuisine constructs its flavors using water, dashi (broth), and fermented condiments such as soy sauce, miso, and mirin. The inclusion of fermented foods, made in a similar process to sake, is likely what creates this harmonious pairing.”

He invites foreigners to savor the pairing of sake, crafted through fermentation, with Japanese cuisine, seasoned with fermented condiments.

“Sashimi²² is a classic dish to pair with sake. It allows you to savor the natural flavors of the ingredients while combining them with soy sauce, a fermented condiment, in a uniquely Japanese way. Other dishes like hiyayakko²³ (chilled tofu) and kamaboko (boiled fish-paste) are also often enjoyed with soy sauce, complemented by a touch of wasabi²⁴, shiso²⁵, or yuzu²⁶ —herbs native to Japan that add aromatic and flavor accents,” adds YANAGIHARA.

“Another recommendation is tsukemono²⁷ (Japanese pickles). Tsukemono contain lactic acid bacteria, which are important in the sake brewing process, and share common characteristics as fermented products, making them a perfect match. There is a wide variety of tsukemono across Japan, each with regional characteristics, so when enjoying local cuisine, I highly recommend trying them as well.”

• 1. Originally, it refers to the meals served during a tea ceremony.
• 2. The ancient Chinese text that records the customs of the people of Yamatai, which is believed to have existed in the 3rd century in Japan, as well as the customs of the Wa people (the inhabitants of the Japanese archipelago) from that time.
• 3. A type of cloudy sake made by fermenting steamed rice with koji and water, without straining the sediment, resulting in a thick, unrefined beverage.
• 4. Sake brewed using only polished white rice, koji, and steamed rice.
• 5. The rice used in the moromi (fermentation mash) stage of sake brewing. See The Techniques and Appeal of ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’ Registered as an Intangible Cultural Heritage in the March 2025 issue of HIGHLIGHTING Japan.
• 6. A pot used for warming sake.
• 7. A small assortment of sake-friendly dishes served for ceremonial drinking in Japanese cuisine, such as kaiseki.
• 8. A dish served alongside alcohol to be enjoyed together. It is not limited to fish dishes.
• 9. A style of dishes served at banquets by aristocrats during the Heian period, considered one of the roots of Japanese cuisine.
• 10. A formal style of Japanese cuisine established around the 16th century, it is systematically organized and considered the origin of modern kaiseki cuisine, which is served at ceremonial occasions such as weddings and funerals.
• 11. A restaurant with private rooms that serves meals based on the customer’s order. Also known as a ryori chaya (cooking teahouse).
• 12. An abbreviation for kuchitori zakana (side dishes served with sake). Today, it includes items like kamaboko (boiled fish-paste), kinton (sweet mashed sweet potatoes), datemaki (sweet rolled omelette), and kobumaki (kelp rolls).
• 13. A type of wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) made by setting sweet red bean paste (anko), primarily using agar-agar or by steaming.
• 14. A confection made by kneading and stuffing ingredients such as red beans, sweetened bean paste, sugar, and agar-agar.
• 15. See New Year’s O-sechi Cuisine: Wishing for Happiness in the Year Ahead in the New Year’s 2025 issue of HIGHLIGHTING Japan.
• 16. A simple assortment of about three types of side dishes served as a substitute for kuchitori zakana (side dishes served with sake).
• 17. A dish made by combining seafood or vegetables with a vinegar-based dressing, creating a tangy flavor.
• 18. A dish made by grilling fish, poultry, or game meat.
• 19. A Japanese cooking method where strong-flavored wild vegetables are boiled and then mixed with suitable seasonings.
• 20. A substance made by steaming grains like rice, barley, and soybeans, as well as bran and rice husks, and allowing the growth of koji mold. It is essential for the brewing of sake, miso, soy sauce, and other fermented products.
• 21. See The History and Characteristics of Traditional Mirin in the March 2025 issue of HIGHLIGHTING Japan.
• 22. A dish where fresh seafood is thinly sliced and eaten raw. Also known as otsukuri.
• 23. A dish where tofu is eaten as is, with soy sauce and garnishes like green onions and other condiments.
• 24. A plant native to Japan, belonging to the cruciferous family. It is green in color and characterized by a refreshing aroma and spicy taste.
• 25. An annual herb in the mint family. It has been cultivated in Japan for a long time and is used as a flavorful herb.
• 26. A type of citrus fruit. Its peel has a distinct refreshing flavor, often used to enhance the taste of soups or simmered dishes.
• 27. Tsukemono refers to preserved foods, mainly vegetables that are salted. There are various types throughout Japan, including nuka-zuke (pickled in rice bran), miso-zuke (pickled in miso), and koji-zuke (pickled in koji). It can also be pickled with seasonings like soy sauce and vinegar.

By MOROHASHI Kumiko
Photos: GOMA Kaoru, KUMA Masashi

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