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Not your typical American 14er Some of the best views and worst weather Something for everyone: rock, snow ad ice Often underestimated by the 70% who don't summit the highest peak outside the Himalaya Starts steep and never lets up with amazing views of K2 The perfect introduction to 8000m climbing The top of the world and deserving of every accolade over the century

drive to trailhead! plane from Talkeetna to Kahiltna Glacier easy, 5 days trek in Khumbu easy, 3 day trek to BC long & harsh, 6 days mostly glacier walking easy, 4 day drive to BC, 1 day to ABC easy, 7 day trek to BC in Khumbu

Moderate - short "climbing" section, little danger, altitude and 14 hour day can bother some not ready for it. Moderate - no "climbing" required other than headwall, heavy loads up and down high up requires excellent fitness Very Hard - technical rock and ice skills at high altitude. Loads can be heavy going up. If inexperienced in rock climbing, Yellow Tower can be very hard. Moderate - no "climbing" involved, altitude can bother some who go too fast. Hard - high altitude, 5 week minimum, continuously steep, harsh weather, long approach. Hard - high altitude, 6 week climb, heavy loads down climbing from C3 after the summit Very hard - altitude above 25000' wears on you, 8 weeks away.

easy. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety easy. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety. Pull sled with gear Difficult, 5.7 rock climbing, 60 degree ice easy, crampons in one short section moderate. used fixed ropes, ice axe, harness, crampons. Summit is very steep snow slope moderate due to altitude in yellow band. Harness, axe, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety moderate due to altitude in yellow band, Hillary Step. Harness, axe, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety

If 1st time at 14K, can bother some people Must acclimatize gradually with rest days at 14K and 17K Watch for AMS. Serious, especially above C2. Many people rush up. Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE Serious, especially above C3. Must acclimatize gradually and not rush. Watch for AMS, HAPE and HACE Serious, especially above C3. Use supplemental Oxygen. Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE Serious, especially above C2. Use supplemental Oxygen. Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE Serious, especially above C2. Use supplemental Oxygen. Must acclimatized properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE

+50F day, 0F night. we had no snow and light winds +40F day, -10F night. we had no snow and light winds. Can be brutally cold!! +50F day, -20F night on summit. we had light snow and light winds +40F day, 0F night. Constant high winds. no precipitation +90F day, -30F night at altitude. Can have strong winds, heavy snow for days on end!! +80F day, -20F night high up. High winds at C3, moderate snowfall throughout +90F day, -30F night above 23K. Occasional very high winds, moderate to heavy snowfall

5,420 at Paradise 7,200 at Kahiltna Glacier 17,000 13,880 Campo Argentina 15,500 on the glacier 18,500 Advanced base Camp 17,500 on Khumbu Glacier

10,100 - Camp Muir
5 hours 7,800 - 3 hours 18, 500 - 4 hours 16,075 - 3 hours 19,000 - 5 hours 20,600 - 6 hours 19,500 - 4 hours via Icefall after acclimation

N/A 11,200 - 4 hours 20,000 - 6 hours 17,500 (Camp 1.5) - 4 hours 21,000 - 4 hours 22,000 - 4 hours 21,000 - 3 hours

N/A 14,200 - 3 hours 21,500 - 4 hours 19,500 - 3 hours 23,000 - 6 hours 24,500 - 4 hours 23,500 - 5 hours

N/A 17,200 - 6 hours N/A N/A 24,500 - 5 hours (not always used) N/A 26,300 - 4 hours

14,417 - 9 hours summit round trip 20,320 - 9 hours summit round trip 22,494 - 8 hours summit round trip 22,902 - 10 hours summit round trip 26,401 - 10 hours true summit round trip 26,907 - 12 hours summit round trip 29,035 - 18 hours summit round trip

earplugs for RMI hut excellent fitting pack for heavy loads Full down suit or jacket/pants excellent wind protection Full down suit or jacket/pants AND excellent wind protection Full down suit or jacket/pants Full down suit or jacket/pants

Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Strong thigh and calf muscles for long days. Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Strong thigh and calf muscles for long days.

RMI Hut - noisy, smelly. trudging up to Basin Camp at 14K with full loads and sleds. Few nice views ... yet Yellow Tower and snow couloir can be exhausting dirt, dust and wind the entire climb! Very remote. BC is harsh. Never ending steep snow slopes. Scree climb to C1. Ugly BC on boulder field but great views of Cho Oyu Physical and mental pressure towards end of climb. Long time away. Icefall can be risky but awesome

great views, big crevasses, wonderful climb for first snow and glacier experience incredible views of Alaska. Flight onto Kahiltna Glacier. True snow Camping with snow walls, trapped in tent for days! A true Himalayan mountaineer's mountain with rock, ice, snow, altitude and Sherpas! Wonderful base Camp environment. High altitude with snow and not a lot of logistics. Argentinean culture is special The best mountain views in the world (imho). Great satisfaction reaching each Camp. And, of course, K2 is next door! Seeing Tibet. An 8,000M mountain. Easy approach. Views of Everest from true summit A true expedition, long time, fixed ropes, Lhotse Face, South Col, Summit night. A lifetime experience

Rainier
(14,410') Denali
(20,320') Ama Dablam
(22,494') Aconcagua
(22,902') Broad Peak
(26,401) Cho Oyu
(26,907') Everest
(29,031')

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