Time in nearest large
city
Cannabera
Port Moresby
Punta Arenas
Mineralniy Vody
Moshi
Route commented on and date climbed
Kosciuszko Track from Thredbo
October 2011
North Face
October 2011
West Face, Branscomb Glacier
December 2010
North side,
West Summit Mikelchiran
Glacier
August 2011
Machame
September 2011
West Buttress
July 2011
Polish Traverse
January 2011
Southeast Ridge
April 2011
Headline
The "original" 7th Summit by Dick Bass but
too easy for Morrow/Messner thus Carstensz.
Most technical of the 7 and just getting there is
the challenge.
The most remote of the 7 Summits - pristine and perfect
with endless ice
Climbing from the north is more a cultural experience than climbing. Harder than southside.
The roof of Africa with a sense of urgency for the
receding glaciers
Some of the best views and worst weather of the 7
Often underestimated by the 70% who don't summit the highest peak
outside the Himalaya
The top of the world and deserving of every accolade over the century
Approach to base Camp (BC)
drive to trailhead, ski lift to 5,000'
Jungle trek for 5 days or helicopter
plane from Union Glacier
long, rough 5 hour drive on 4WD roads
2 hours drive to trailhead
plane from Talkeetna to Kahiltna Glacier
Easy, 3 day trek to BC
Easy, 7 day trek to BC in Khumbu
Overall Difficulty
Easy - A walk-up on dirt trails
but can be a challenge in cold wintry weather with trail finding in whiteouts.
Technical with rock climbing, altitude can be issue for some.
Moderate - no "climbing" required other than headwall,
heavy loads up and down high up requires excellent fitness
Moderate - no "climbing" required. Carrying personal
loads to High Camp requires good fitness
Easy - mostly on well worn trails but altitude
can be difficult
Moderate - no "climbing" required other than headwall,
heavy loads up and down high up requires excellent fitness
Moderate - no "climbing" involved, altitude can bother
some who go too fast.
Very hard - altitude above 25000' wears on you, 8 weeks
away.
Technical Difficulty (ice or rock climbing, need for
axes, harnesses, slings, protection, etc)
None. nothing special required
Moderate - rock climbing, rappelling and
a Tyrolean Traverse makes it interesting
Easy. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse
and fall safety. Pull sleds with gear.
Easy. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall
safety
None. nothing special required. Maybe microspikes if
summit is snow covered.
Simple. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse
and fall safety. Pull sleds with gear. Headwall can challenge some.
Easy, crampons in one short section (Canaleta) on summit
push
moderate due to altitude in yellow band, Hillary Step.
Harness, axe, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety
Altitude Considerations
not an issue for most people
Must acclimatize properly and watch for
AMS.
Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS.
Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS.
High altitude gain so must acclimatize
gradually with no rush by guides and watch for AMS.
Must acclimatize gradually with rest days
at 14K and 17K Watch for AMS.
Serious above C3. Must acclimatize gradually and not
rush. Watch for AMS, HAPE and HACE
Extreme. Serious, especially above C2. Use supplemental
Oxygen. Must acclimatized properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE
Weather (all mountains can be cold, windy and constantly
change!!)
+70F day, can be windy and cold in winter
with whiteouts
Hot, humid and rain in the jungle, cold
on the summit push
+60F day, -30F night. Can be extremely wet
+70F day, 0F night on summit. we had light winds
+60F day, 0F night. Can be very wet
+40F day, -10F night. we had no snow and light winds.
Can be brutally cold!!
+50F day, 0F night but winds are the issue and can be beyond cold on summit night.
+90F day, -30F night above 23K. Occasional very high
winds, moderate to heavy snowfall
base Camp altitude
4,528'
14,000' at Lakes Camp
7,300' on Bascomb Glacier
8,200' on Emanuil's Glade
5905' at Machame gate
7,200' at Kahiltna Glacier
13,880 Campo Argentina
17,500' on Khumbu Glacier
Camp 1 and average climb time from previous Camp
N/A
9,100' - 4 hours
12,000' - 4 hours
10,000' at Machame Hut - 6 hours
7,800' - 3 hours
16,075 - 3 hours
19,500' - 4 hours via Icefall after acclimation
Camp 2 and average climb time from previous Camp
N/A
N/A
13,200' - 6 hours
N/A
12,200' at Shira Hut - 5 hours
11,200' - 4 hours
17,500' (Camp 1.5) - 4 hours
21,000' - 3 hours
Camp 3 and average climb time from previous Camp
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
13,000' at Barranco Hut - 6 hours. Karanga
Valley 13,000' - 4 hours
14,200' - 3 hours
19,500' - 3 hours
23,500' - 5 hours
Camp 4 and average climb time from previous Camp
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
15,000' at Barufu Hut - 4 hours
17,200' - 6 hours
N/A
26,300' - 4 hours
Summit and average round trip climb time
7,310' - 1 hours summit round trip. 8.6
miles
16,023' - 12 hours round trip
16,067' - 12 hours summit round trip
18,513' - 12 hours summit round trip
19,340' - 9 hours summit round trip
20,320'- 9 hours summit round trip
22,842 - 10 hours summit round trip
29,035 - 18 hours summit round trip
Special gear required or suggested
WInd jacket, good hiking shoes
Full technical harness, carabineers, jumar
full protection for extreme cold and winds
protection for high winds and cold
sturdy high top hiking boots plus excellent rain pants and jacket
excellent fitting pack for heavy loads
excellent wind protection
Full down suit or jacket/pants
Special training required or suggested
Good fitness but not over the top
Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling).
Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong
stomach & back muscles for loads.
Good aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong
stomach & back muscles for loads.
Aerobic training especially for those who have never climbed above 14,000'
Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong
stomach & back muscles for loads.
Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling).
Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running,
cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Strong thigh and calf muscles
for long days. Mental toughness
Low point of the mountain or climb
can be crowded in summer with over 100,000 people climbing it each year.
The uncertainty of the logistics and the bribes required for the locals
very long waits for plane to and from Union Glacier
High Camp is very dirty with widespread waste
cloudy, misty days that block views. Very dusty otherwise
trudging up to Basin Camp at 14K with full
loads and sleds. Few nice views ... yet
dirt, dust and wind the entire climb!
Physical and mental pressure towards end of climb. Long
time away. Icefall can be risky but awesome
Unique aspect of the mountain or climb
The summit view is fantastic overlooking the Snowy Mountain Range
The rock climbing is excellent. Plus the interaction with the tribes is eye opening.
Antarctica is one of the most amazing places
on earth with pristine and prefect views of endless ice.
It is Russia! More of a cultural experience than climbing
but summit day was excellent with outstanding views
Seeing the disappearing snows and glaciers from the summit. Also African culture
incredible views of Alaska. Flight onto Kahiltna Glacier.
True snow Camping with snow walls, trapped in tent for days!
High altitude with snow and easy logistics.
Argentinean culture is special
A true, long, expedition, fixed
ropes, Lhotse Face, South Col, Summit night. A lifetime experience
Estimated Annual Climbers, % success
10,000 annual @ 80%+ summits
500 annual @ 90%+ summits
300 annual @ 95%+ summits
Best guess 5000+ from south with 50% success, 1000 north @ 40%
25,000 annual @ 66%+ summits
1,200 annual @ 50% summits
5000 annual @ 30% summits
600 annual @ 80% summits