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1995 K2 disaster

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Mountaineering expedition disaster on K2 in Pakistan
1995 K2 disaster
Date13 August 1995 – 15 August 1995
LocationK2
CauseStorm
Deaths7
Non-fatal injuries2

The 1995 K2 disaster was a mountaineering disaster on K2 in Pakistan, the world's second highest mountain. Six people are reported to have died on August 13, 1995, on K2, largely related to bad weather, especially reported high winds.[1] Scott Fischer was climbing Broad Peak at the time, and suggested that a contributing factor was combination of brutal cold and 160-kilometre-per-hour-plus (100 mph) winds.[1]

Background

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The Mountain

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Main article: K2

K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest at 8,849 metres (29,032 ft).[2] It lies in the Karakoram range, often considered to be the most deadly mountain on Earth due to its steepness as compared to other eight-thousanders. Prior to 2021, approximately one person had died on the mountain for every four who reached the summit.[3] [4] [5]

Expedition Goal

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The primary goal for the climbers was to successfully climb K2 which only few has done at this point. Besides that, several climbers aimed to accomplish significant personal and professional milestones:

Alison Hargreaves

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Alison Hargreaves, a british woman had recently climbed Mount Everest without any use of supplemental oxygen, being the first women to do so alone and was hoping to climb K2 aswell without any aid.[6]

Spanish Team

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Two spanish clubs Montañeros de Aragon from Zaragoza and Peña Guara Club from Huesca ere also planning to climb K2 in the summer of 1995 Their members include Javier Escartín, Lorenzo Ortíz, Lorenzo Ortas Monson, Javier Olivar and several others all of which had previously climbed nearby peaks like Hidden Peak, Nanga Parbat, etc and now their goal was to successfully climb K2.[7]

American Team

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The American team consisting of Rob Slater, Scott Johnston, Jack Roberts and many others had came to Pakistan in late may with the goal of summiting K2. The team made several attempts to climb K2 but were unable to do so due to bad weather condition. By August 8, porters were called to leave K2 and the team left except for Rob Slater who planned to continue the expedition with New zealand team.[8]

Rob Slater had no prior experience in climbing peaks more than 7000m and K2 was his first seven thousander and eight thousander. Despite the risk, he had prepared for the expedition for almost two years and was hoping to climb the deadly mountain in 1995.[9]

Expedition

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An American team had gained a permit to climb 8,611-metre (28,251 ft) K2 in the summer of 1995. K2 is regarded as a significantly more difficult and dangerous climb than Mount Everest. By August 13, 1995, the remnants of the U.S. team and Alison Hargreaves had joined forces with a New Zealand and Canadian team at Camp 4, around 7,600 metres (24,900 ft) above sea level, and at least 12 hours from the summit. Later that day, having joined with a Spanish team of mountaineers above Camp 4, New Zealander Peter Hillary, son of Everest pioneer Sir Edmund Hillary, decided to turn back, noting that the weather that had been fine for the previous four days appeared to be changing.[10] At 6:45 p.m., in fine conditions, Hargreaves and Spaniard Javier Olivar reached the summit, followed by American Rob Slater, Spaniards Javier Escartín and Lorenzo Ortíz, and New Zealander Bruce Grant. All six died in a violent storm while returning from the summit.[11] Canadian Jeff Lakes, who had turned back below the summit earlier, managed to reach one of the lower camps but died from the effects of exposure.[1] [12]

The next day, two Spanish climbers, Pepe Garces and Lorenzo Ortas Monson (not Lorenzo Ortíz, who was killed in the storm), who had survived the storm at Camp 4, were descending the mountain suffering from frostbite and exhaustion. Before reaching Camp 3 they found a bloodstained anorak, a climbing boot, and a harness. They recognized the equipment as belonging to Hargreaves. From Camp 3 they could also see a body in the distance. They did not approach the body, so it was not positively identified, but they had little doubt it was Hargreaves and concluded she had been blown off the mountain during the storm.[13] [14] Lorenzo Ortas and Pepe Garces survived but had to be airlifted out, enduring six days without a tent.[13]

List of fatalities

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Name[11] Nationality Date Cause of death
Alison Hargreaves  United Kingdom 13 August 1995 Precise details unknown; possibly blown off the mountain[13]
Javier Olivar  Spain Precise details unknown; lost in storm[13]
Rob Slater  United States
Javier Escartín  Spain
Lorenzo Ortíz  Spain
Bruce Grant  New Zealand
Jeff Lakes  Canada 15 August 1995 Exposure[1]

Earlier in the season, Jordi Anglès died from a fall at K2.[15]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d Roberts, Paul. "Scottish Climber Alison Hargreaves and Six Others Killed on K2". Outside Online. Archived from the original on 2009年12月23日.
  2. ^ "Mount Everest is two feet taller, China and Nepal announce". National Geographic . Archived from the original on 8 December 2020. Retrieved 5 April 2021.
  3. ^ Stone, Larry (6 September 2018). "Summiting 'Savage Mountain': The harrowing story of these Washington climbers' K2 ascent". The Seattle Times. Retrieved 6 September 2018.
  4. ^ "AdventureStats – by Explorersweb". adventurestats.com. Archived from the original on 18 November 2015. Retrieved 21 October 2015.
  5. ^ Clarke, Owen; Potter, Steven (30 May 2024). "Is K2, the "Savage Mountain," Becoming Less Savage?". Climbing. Retrieved 11 July 2024.
  6. ^ "HERSTORY: Alison Hargreaves: Climbing Her Mountain". www.ukclimbing.com. 2023年03月07日. Retrieved 2025年02月12日.
  7. ^ "AAC Publications - The Spanish Version of the K2 Tragedy". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2025年02月12日.
  8. ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, K2, Ascent and Tragedy". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2025年02月12日.
  9. ^ Slater, Rich (2011). Honed: A Twin's Biography of the Unforgettable Rob Slater. Fastpencil, Incorporated. ISBN 978-1-60746-218-7.
  10. ^ Hillary, Peter. "In the name of the father: The 1995 K2 Expedition". peterhillary.com. Archived from the original on 2010年05月15日.
  11. ^ a b Child, Greg (2004年05月02日). "Climbing: The Last Ascent of Alison Hargreaves". Outside Magazine. Retrieved 2021年05月14日.
  12. ^ "Alison Hargreaves". everestnews.com.
  13. ^ a b c d Boggan, Steve (1995年08月19日). "K2: the final hours" . The Independent. Archived from the original on 2022年05月01日. Retrieved 2016年03月06日.
  14. ^ "Extract" (PDF). The Sunday Times. December 3, 1995.
  15. ^ 8000ers – Fatalities – K2

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