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A design featuring rhinestones and clear 3D art.
Photo: Japan Nailist Association (NPO)

Japanese nail art has developed its own unique style, building on techniques originating in the West while reflecting Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship. Some Japanese nail artists have gained international recognition, even working with Western celebrities. We spoke with a nail artist who has been active since the 1990s, when Japan’s nail art scene truly began to flourish.

Nail art, the practice of decorating and designing nails, represents a miniature form of artistic expression within kawaii culture. Its origins date back to around 3000 B.C. in ancient Egypt, where nails were painted red as part of body decoration. In Japan, the tradition of coloring nails can be traced from the Heian period (794 to late 12th century) through the Edo period (early 17th to mid-late 19th century), when people used tsumabeni (impatiens)¹ and benibana (safflower)² dyes on their nails.

Techniques such as adding color with nail polish, extending nail length, or decorating nails with sculptured designs³ have been part of global beauty culture and became popular primarily in the United States from the first half of the 20th century. These methods reached Japan in the 1970s. OKI Rika, a nail artist and certified instructor at the headquarters of the Japan Nailist Association (NPO), who also serves as an examiner for nail care and nail art skill certification tests, reflects on the rise of nail art culture in Japan.

“In Japan, techniques and products from the United States began arriving in the late 1970s. By the early 1980s, nail salons and manicurists—now called nailists—emerged, and from the late 1990s to the early 2000s, nail culture truly flourished. The rise of gyaru culture⁴ and Harajuku-style fashion⁵ spurred nail art to become an integral part of fashion, with increasingly flashy and kawaii designs using materials beyond traditional nail polish. While French manicures⁶ and single-color nails dominated in the United States, Japan saw the spread of diverse design styles, including rhinestones,⁷ 3D art,⁸ and hand-painted designs,” explains OKI.

In the 2010s, the popularity of gel nails⁹ extended the longevity of manicures, making delicate floral motifs and subtle, nuanced designs—so-called “adult kawaii” styles with a feminine touch—particularly popular. “Japanese nail art, I believe, has always evolved in connection with the fashion trends and popular subcultures¹⁰ of each era,” OKI reflects on its history.

Many eye-catching designs feature motifs such as characters, seasonal themes, or food, and the playful creativity expressed on tiny fingertips has become one of the defining elements that reflect kawaii culture in Japan.

Japanese nail artists have adopted techniques introduced from overseas and refined them, striving for ever more delicate artistry and ultimately creating a distinctive cultural expression. The term “nailist”—a Japanese-made word meaning “an artist who works on nails”—was coined by the Japan Nailist Association (NPO), established in 1985 to promote nail culture and develop the industry. The term gained wider recognition in the 1990s through specialized nail art magazines and the introduction of skill certification exams.

As OKI observes, “Japanese nail artists express the beauty of Japan’s kawaii all the way to the fingertips through their dexterity and attention to detail. This is evident in the uniformity of nail shapes and cut styles, the overall balance of designs across the hand, and the delicate hand-painted lines. Their work is highly regarded worldwide, often compared to paintings or jewelry.”

This careful attention to detail reflects a broader Japanese sense of kawaii, seen in miniatures and decorative items, as well as a pursuit of originality. Visitors to Japan can experience nail art firsthand, gaining an appreciation for both its exquisite techniques and its playful, kawaii sensibility—making it a memorable part of any trip.

• 1. Another name for impatiens (Impatiens balsamina), derived from its use in dyeing nails red with its flowers.
• 2. A plant of the chrysanthemum family. Pigments extracted from its petals have long been used for dyeing, cosmetics, nail coloring, and food coloring.
• 3. A technique in which acrylic liquid and acrylic powder are mixed and applied to natural nails for reinforcement, then shaped into the desired form.
• 4. Refers to the values, culture, and mindset of young Japanese women.
• 5. A fashion style originating in Harajuku, Tokyo, encompassing individualistic looks that defy conventional norms.
• 6. A classic nail design featuring white tips.
• 7. Imitation gemstones made of crystal, glass, or acrylic resin, or metal pieces used as accents on clothing, shoes, accessories, or nail art.
• 8. Three-dimensional nail designs created using a mixture of acrylic liquid and acrylic powder.
• 9. Nails enhanced with gel, a synthetic resin cured under UV or LED light.
• 10. In Japan, it refers to youth-oriented pop culture—including trends, anime and manga, idols, and other forms of mass entertainment—contrasted with traditional culture.

By TANAKA Nozomi
Photo: Japan Nailist Association (NPO); JNA TECHNICAL SYSTEM BASIC (Published by Japan Nailist Association, NPO); JNA TECHNICAL SYSTEM ADVANCE (Published by Japan Nailist Association, NPO); OKI Rika

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