VOL.201 MARCH 2025
Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan
Discover the Rich Sweetness and Complex Aromas of Okinawa’s Awamori, Crafted to Maximize Its Ingredients
Aging awamori (‘kusu’): A tradition of maturing awamori over time after distillation.
Photo: ISHIZAWA Yoji
Located in southwestern Japan, Okinawa Prefecture has long served as a key trading hub in East Asia. To learn more about awamori, the region’s traditional distilled spirit, we spoke with a distillery that has been crafting awamori since its founding in 1887.
Photo: ISHIZAWA Yoji
NAGADO Kensaku, who handles sales at Zuisen Distillery Co., Ltd., explains the origins of the name ‘awamori’ and the history of its brewing process. “Awamori is a traditional distilled spirit from Okinawa and a type of shochu (see “The Craft of Shochu Distilling in Kagoshima Prefecture: Creating a Sweet, Rich Aroma and Smooth Depth ”). There are several theories regarding the origin of the name ‘awamori.’ One theory suggests that in the mid-17th century, when it was sent as a tribute from the Ryukyu Kingdom1 at the time to the Tokugawa Shogunate, it was named ‘awamori’ to distinguish it from the shochu made in the Kyushu region. Another theory is that the name comes from the way the alcohol content was measured—by the amount of foam that formed when the liquor was poured into a glass, as the ‘awa’(泡) in ‘awamori’ means foam. Additionally, there is a theory that the name comes from the use of millet, known as ‘awa'(粟)in Japanese, as an ingredient.
“The history of awamori production is long, with brewing techniques having been introduced over 600 years ago through cultural exchanges with Southeast Asia. These techniques were adapted to Okinawa’s unique climate and environment, allowing awamori to develop and flourish," says NAGADO.
A characteristic of awamori production is the use of Thai rice2 and black koji mold3 in the brewing process. “Thai rice is hard and has a light texture, making it easier to mix with black koji mold, which results in a high alcohol yield4. Unlike most shochu, which uses a variety of ingredients, awamori is made solely from rice, giving it a strong natural sweetness and a complex aroma. The aroma is often described in various ways, including vanilla, nuts, spices, and yogurt, each of which is a defining characteristic of different products,” explains NAGADO.
“Awamori has a tradition of being aged after distillation, and those aged for more than three years are referred to as ‘kusu’ (a term in the Okinawan dialect). The flavor changes depending on factors such as alcohol content, aging time, the type of large earthenware vessel used for storage, and the surrounding environment. This variety of flavor profiles is one of the delights of awamori.”
There are also many different ways to enjoy awamori.
Photo: ISHIZAWA Yoji
“Awamori can be enjoyed in various ways, such as with water, hot water, on the rocks, straight, or mixed with soda. Even when diluted, the unique flavor of awamori remains intact. However, with aged awamori, it’s best to first taste it straight to fully savor its aroma and flavor. For overseas customers visiting the distillery, we offer English-subtitled explanations of the brewing process, and they can also enjoy comparing new and aged awamori, which is highly appreciated,” says NAGADO. “Reactions from international customers vary, but many are fascinated by the smoothness, aroma, and sweetness of aged awamori. Also, the strength of awamori’s alcohol content (around 30%) often surprises visitors.”
When visiting Okinawa, why not take a trip to a local distillery and sample this iconic Okinawan spirit?
- 1. The Ryukyu Kingdom was established in the early 15th century. In the early 17th century, it came under the control of the Satsuma Domain (ruled by the Shimazu family, which controlled areas including present-day Kagoshima Prefecture from the early 17th century until the middle of the late 19th century). It became the Ryukyu Domain in 1872 and Okinawa Prefecture in 1879.
- 2. A variety of rice known as indica, characterized by long, slender grains. It has less stickiness and is said to have a lighter taste. In contrast, rice produced in Japan is of the japonica variety, which is round, glossy, and fluffy.
- 3. The microorganism used in the production of traditional Japanese fermented foods, including sake, shochu, miso, and soy sauce, is called koji mold. Black koji mold is a type of koji mold that produces reproductive cells (spores) with a blackish-brown color.
- 4. The percentage of pure alcohol obtained from 1,000 kilograms of white rice. It is an indicator of how much alcohol can be produced from rice.
Photo: ISHIZAWA Yoji; PIXTA