VOL.206 AUGUST 2025
THE APPEAL OF YOSHOKU: JAPANESE-STYLE WESTERN CUISINE (PART 1)
Yokohama-born Spaghetti Napolitan
Spaghetti Napolitan served at Hotel New Grand
Photo: ISHIZAWA Yoji
Spaghetti Napolitan, a dish in which boiled pasta is stir-fried with ingredients, has become a staple on menus at coffee shops and restaurants throughout Japan. We interviewed the hotel where this dish was first created to learn the story behind its origin.
Located in Yokohama City, Kanagawa Prefecture, Hotel New Grand first opened its doors in 1927 and will soon celebrate its hundredth anniversary. The main building of the hotel has been preserved in its original state since its opening, and in 1992 was registered on the List of Historic Buildings Certified by Yokohama City. Furthermore, in 2007, it was recognized as a Heritage of Industrial Modernization by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry, and is cherished as a landmark of Yokohama City. According to YOKOYAMA Hitomi, Public Relations Officer at Hotel New Grand, Spaghetti Napolitan was created in the post-World War II era, a period of transition in the hotel’s history.
Photo: Hotel New Grand
Hotel New Grand was originally opened as a guest house to host and entertain dignitaries from overseas, and has welcomed many historic figures, including Charlie Chaplin,1 Babe Ruth,2 and, after World War II, General Douglas MacArthur.3 It is believed that the signature pasta dish appeared on the hotel’s menu under the name “Spaghetti Napolitan” in the 1950s, following the end of the approximately seven-year-long requisition4 after the war. During the requisition period, the sight of American soldiers eating spaghetti brought in as military rations, simply boiled and seasoned with salt, pepper, and tomato ketchup, inspired IRIE Shigetada, the hotel’s second head chef, to create a more refined pasta dish worthy of being served at the hotel.
Photo: Hotel New Grand
IRIE Shigetada joined Hotel New Grand in 1935 as an apprentice to the hotel’s first head chef, Saly Weil. After the end of the requisition period, he succeeded Weil and served as the second head chef for a quarter of a century, while also appearing on TV as a cooking commentator and earning widespread popularity. Spaghetti Napolitan is a dish that embodies the special touches of Chef IRIE, who devoted himself to the development of French and yoshoku, or Japanese-style Western cuisine in Japan.
“To achieve a pleasantly chewy texture, the spaghetti is first boiled, then cooled in ice water, divided into individual portions, and left to rest overnight. The sauce is made using three types of tomatoes: raw tomatoes for freshness, boiled tomatoes for sweetness and depth, and tomato paste for richness and a lively color. Minced garlic and onion are stir-fried until golden brown, then combined with chopped tomatoes, whole boiled tomatoes, and tomato paste. The mixture is seasoned with bay leaves and a generous amount of olive oil, and finally, a touch of butter is added to round out the flavors.”
Among the recipes brought to Hotel New Grand by Saly Weil, who had gained his culinary skills at a hotel in France before coming to Japan, was a side dish called “Spaghetti Napolitaine,5” pasta tossed with tomato sauce. Building on this recipe, IRIE developed Spaghetti Napolitan, in which tomatoes take central stage.
After Hotel New Grand’s Spaghetti Napolitan gained popularity, the Yokohama-based restaurant Center Grill created its own version of the dish using ketchup. The ketchup-flavored Spaghetti Napolitan made with bacon and green bell peppers spread throughout Japan.
To this day, Hotel New Grand continues to serve the original Spaghetti Napolitan at its cafe-restaurant on the first floor of the main building as well as to its guests as part of the room service menu. Visitors can also enjoy a variety of other yoshoku that originated at the hotel.
“Our hotel offers various other yoshoku that were born in Japan, such as Seafood Doria, created by our first head chef, Saly Weil, and Custard Pudding a la mode, which was first served by our patisserie to the wives of military officers during the requisition period. We hope guests from overseas will enjoy these yoshoku, which have been adapted to suit Japanese tastes.”
Photo: ISHIZAWA Yoji
- 1. Charles Chaplin (1889 – 1977) was a British-born actor and director. After moving to the U.S., he produced and starred in numerous comedies. His best known films include The Gold Rush, City Lights, Modern Times, and Limelight.
- 2. George Herman “Babe” Ruth (1895 – 1948) was an American professional baseball player. He spent many years with the New York Yankees, winning 12 American League home run titles, setting a single-season record of 60 home runs, and finishing his career with a total of 714 home runs.
- 3. Douglas MacArthur (1880 – 1964) was an American military officer. In 1941, he became the commander of the US Army Forces in the Far East. After the end of World War II, he resided in Japan as the Supreme Commander for the Allied Powers (SCAP).
- 4. The act of a government or other authority forcibly seizing private property. After World War II, Japan was occupied by the U.S.-led Allied Powers. In Yokohama City, various facilities and land were placed under their control.
- 5. During that period in Naples, Italy, tomato-based stew dishes were commonly referred to as “Naples-style” (or “Napolitaine” in French).
By MOROHASHI Kumiko
Photo: ISHIZAWA Yoji; Hotel New Grand