VOL.201 MARCH 2025
Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan The Craft of Shochu Distilling in Kagoshima Prefecture: Creating a Sweet, Rich Aroma and Smooth Depth

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A glimpse into the shochu fermentation process: The preliminary preparation stage (see main text).
Photo: Satsuma Shuzo Company

Shochu is a traditional Japanese distilled spirit, with Kyushu being its main production area. We spoke with the makers of Satsuma Shochu, who continue to preserve the time-honored methods of distilling in Kagoshima Prefecture.

Shochu, a distilled spirit, is distinctly different from sake due to the distillation process, resulting in a higher alcohol content¹. While awamori (see “Discover the Rich Sweetness and Complex Aromas of Okinawa’s Awamori, Crafted to Maximize Its Ingredients”), a traditional Okinawan liquor, is also a type of shochu, it is made exclusively from long-grain Thai rice, whereas shochu commonly uses ingredients such as sweet potatoes and barley.

The koji mold² used in shochu production thrives in warm climates, which is why the Kyushu region, located in the southwestern part of the Japanese archipelago, is home to many shochu production areas. The western half of Kagoshima Prefecture, at the southernmost tip of Kyushu, was once known as ‘Satsuma Province’ and is also famous for its production of sweet potatoes. (The term ‘Satsuma’ is historically tied to the region and its agricultural heritage, particularly the sweet potato, or satsumaimo, used in shochu production.) The shochu made from these sweet potatoes is called ‘Satsuma Shochu.’ We spoke with HONBO Kazuhisa, responsible for marketing at Satsuma Shuzo Company, a well-known distillery in Makurazaki City, Kagoshima Prefecture.

“Satsuma Shochu refers to shochu produced in Kagoshima Prefecture using locally sourced sweet potatoes and water, and either rice koji or sweet potato koji. In 2005, it was recognized by the World Trade Organization (WTO) as a Geographical Indication (GI)³ and is internationally protected as a regional brand.”

In the production of Satsuma Shochu, the freshness of the sweet potatoes plays a key role in determining the flavor, which is why Satsuma Shuzo’s distilleries are located in an area surrounded by sweet potato fields, allowing them to use freshly harvested sweet potatoes. The traditional production process of Satsuma Shochu is as follows: First, steamed rice is mixed with spores of koji mold to create the koji (a process known as ‘seigiku’), which takes about two days. The koji from the first step is then combined with water and yeast for the preliminary preparation, which ferments for approximately six days. In the secondary preparation, steamed and crushed sweet potatoes and water are added, and the fermentation process lasts around two weeks. The resulting shochu mash, called ‘moromi,’ is then distilled once to create the authentic shochu (honkaku shochu, or single-distilled shochu). The single distillation process helps preserve the natural aroma and flavor of the ingredients. Satsuma Shochu is characterized by its sweet, rich aroma and smooth, full-bodied taste.

“At one of our distilleries, the Kedogawa Distillery Meijigura, shochu is still made by a group of artisans, including the koji (chief shochu master)⁴, using traditional handcrafted methods. The koji used in the production is made in a special room called the koji-muro or koji-making room, which is temperature-controlled through natural ventilation, and the mash is prepared in large earthenware vessels,” says HONBO.

HONBO explains that in Kagoshima Prefecture, shochu is a drink deeply rooted in daily life. “There is a custom called ‘dare yame,’ which refers to the evening drink (ban-shaku). ‘Dare’ means fatigue, and ‘yame’ means to stop or remove, so it is a local dialect expressing the act of drinking alcohol to relieve fatigue. Satsuma Shochu is at the center of this tradition. My recommended way to enjoy it is by drinking it with hot water (oyuwari). While whiskey, another distilled spirit, is typically enjoyed straight or on the rocks, shochu’s flavor and aroma are enhanced when mixed with hot water. It also has the effect of warming the body. In addition, it pairs well with local dishes such as braised pork belly (kakuni) and satsuma-age⁵, as well as Western and Chinese cuisines, making it a popular choice to drink with meals.”

“At the Kedogawa Distillery Meijigura, visitors from overseas are welcome, with brochures available in English and Chinese. We also use manufacturing videos with subtitles in multiple languages to guide visitors. International guests often express appreciation for the opportunity to see the traditional shochu production process firsthand. The unique atmosphere of the building and the sight of artisans handcrafting the shochu are particularly interesting to overseas visitors. There is also a tasting corner. We encourage you to visit Kagoshima to experience the authentic shochu-making process and its rich flavors.”

• 1. Under the Liquor Tax Act, Japanese sake is defined as having an alcohol content of less than 22%, while honkaku shochu (single-distilled shochu) is defined as having an alcohol content of 45% or lower. While most Japanese sake typically has an alcohol content of around 15–16%, honkaku shochu is commonly available at 20% or 25%.
• 2. ‘Koji mold’ refers to a type of microorganism that belongs to the mold family, whereas ‘koji’ refers to grains such as steamed rice, sweet potatoes, or barley that have been cultivated with koji mold. In other words, koji mold is the microorganism itself, while koji is the fermentation ingredient made using the mold.
• 3. A system approved by the World Trade Organization (WTO) to protect high-quality foods and alcoholic beverages produced in specific regions. In Japan, products such as Japanese sake are registered under this system, ensuring regional traditions and characteristics while preventing imitation.
• 4. The chief shochu master responsible for overseeing shochu production and providing technical guidance.
• 5. A traditional dish from Kagoshima made by deep-frying seasoned fish paste. It has a crispy exterior and a soft, fluffy texture inside.

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