VOL.201 MARCH 2025
Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan
The Techniques and Appeal of ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’ Registered as an Intangible Cultural Heritage
Photo: Agency for Cultural Affairs
In December 2024, ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’, proposed by the Government of Japan to UNESCO, was inscribed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Sake made using this tradition has long played an essential role in Japanese social customs and cultural events, such as rituals and festivals. We spoke to TOKURA Shunichi, Commissioner of Agency for Cultural Affairs, about the background to the inscription, its appeal, and future initiatives for its development in Japan and around the world.
Active as a composer, arranger and producer, TOKURA has served as the Chairman of the Japan Society for Rights of Authors, Composers and Publishers (JASRAC) and as a member of the Council for Cultural Affairs at the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology. He was appointed Commissioner for Cultural Affairs in April 2021.
‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’, proposed by the Government of Japan, was inscribed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in December 2024. In light of this inscription, please provide an outline of the Government’s proposal and the story behind its inscription.
Sake, a Japanese alcoholic beverage made from grains and quality water, is deeply rooted in Japanese culture. The technique of ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’, whose original forms were established more than 500 years ago, share the common characteristic of using koji1. However, they have evolved differently depending on the climate and geography of various regions in Japan. These skills have been handed down to produce nihonshu (brewed liquor), shochu and awamori (distilled liquors), and mirin (sweet sake used for seasoning) (see column).
‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making’ refers to the expertise of toji (chief sake or shochu masters)2 and a group of artisans called kurabito, among others3, who have traditionally used koji mold to brew sake. This represents a distinctive aspect of Japanese culture, cultivated with delicate sensibility and refined skill over a long history. These techniques have developed in response to the diverse climates and environments of various regions in Japan.
Sake made using the ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’ plays an essential role in Japan’s social and cultural events, such as rituals and celebrations. Certain customs have been observed since ancient times—for example, couples perform the sansankudo4 ritual at weddings, in which they exchange cups of sake, and sake is offered to the deities at jichinsai5 (ground-breaking ceremonies). Sake has been rooted in Japanese society as an essential element in various events that mark significant milestones in people’s lives.
Photo: Agency for Cultural Affairs
Expecting that more people all over the world as well as in Japan will come to appreciate the history and cultural richness of ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’, and that it will be an opportunity to foster dialogue and exchanges with other cultures, the Government of Japan had proposed its inscription on the UNESCO Representative List from 2022. As a result, it was inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in December 2024, becoming Japan’s 23rd inscribed Intangible Cultural Heritage. In the realm of Japanese food culture, this marks the second inscription following ‘Washoku, traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese,’ which was inscribed in December 2013.
Let us know the key evaluation points that led the Intergovernmental Committee to inscribe ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’ as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Within Japanese food culture, ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’ has been cultivated over a long history and supported by sake breweries rooted across the country. Many of these breweries have histories long enough to be considered long-established businesses (shinise). Even as ownership changes, the spirit of producing the highest quality sake, adapted to the unique climates and soils of each region, has been passed down through generations and continuously preserved.
The Intergovernmental Committee, which decided to inscribe ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’ as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, recognized the efforts by sake breweries all over the country. These efforts were evaluated on four key points that are considered to contribute to the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)6.
The first point is that protecting the environment to ensure clean water and the production of grains, including rice, necessary for sake-making contributes to ‘food security’ and ‘environmental sustainability.’
The second point is that there are no gender restrictions for bearers such as toji and kurabito, promoting ‘gender equality.’
The third point is that the participation of many residents, including farmers who provide raw materials, fosters social cohesion within communities, contributing to ‘peace and social cohesion.’
The fourth point is that by-products of the sake-making process, such as the sake cake7, are repurposed for secondary products such as mirin. This efficient use of resources supports ‘responsible consumption and production.’
Many sake breweries are now promoting environmentally friendly sake-making. Expectations for sake-making are growing, particularly in fostering a society and economy based on a regional circular system. This includes cooperation with agriculture, a key local industry, and efforts to conserve forests.
Let us know the future actions planned by the Government of Japan and Agency for Cultural Affairs, in light of the registration of ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’ as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Japan’s four major toji groups are Nanbu Toji of Iwate Prefecture, Echigo Toji of Niigata Prefecture, Tajima Toji of Hyogo Prefecture, and Noto Toji of Ishikawa Prefecture. These groups, which uphold ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’, are spread throughout the country. These regions are also significant hubs for sake brewing in Japan.
However, last year, on New Year’s Day of 2024, Noto Peninsula was struck by an earthquake, followed by heavy rainfall, causing severe damage in Ishikawa Prefecture, one of Japan’s leading areas for cultural and artistic resources. Noto Peninsula was particularly affected, with many sake breweries suffering extensive damage. In Noto, some breweries were completely or partly destroyed, and some are still struggling to resume sake brewing. In response, a support network has been expanding, with relief donations from all over the country and cooperation from nearby breweries to make sake. Even spaces have been offered to assist in the sake brewing process.
In light of this, Agency for Cultural Affairs organized an event in January 2025 to support Noto’s post-disaster reconstruction and restoration. The event aimed to support them by promoting the appeal of Ishikawa Prefecture both in Japan and overseas, taking the opportunity of the inscription of ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’ as an Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Photo: Agency for Cultural Affairs
To ensure the invaluable ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’ are passed on to future generations and continue to evolve, Agency for Cultural Affairs aims to leverage this registration as an opportunity to support the efforts of those working to communicate its appeal to people not only in Japan but also overseas.
Looking overseas, exports of Japanese alcoholic beverages, nihonshu, or ‘osake’ as its mainstream and others including whisky, have been increasing annually, thanks to their growing international reputation. However, when viewed in the context of the global alcoholic beverage market as a whole, the export value of Japanese alcoholic beverages is still only around 0.1%. To address this, the Government of Japan is working to increase exports of these beverages through public and private sector initiatives.
In fact, a wide variety of government agencies in Japan are involved in the administration of alcoholic beverages. National Tax Agency is in charge of the alcoholic beverage industry, as its development is closely linked to liquor taxes. Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries handles agriculture, which produces the raw materials for alcoholic beverages, such as rice and other grains. Furthermore, many of the sake breweries are historical buildings and serve as tourist attractions, with Japan Tourism Agency responsible for the tourism industry. Agency for Cultural Affairs contributes by promoting the culture of sake making, and in disseminating the appeal of Japanese alcoholic beverages to consumers around the world. We collaborate not only with Japanese alcoholic beverage manufacturers but also with related administrative agencies and local governments.
Sake brewery tours for foreign visitors to Japan are becoming increasingly popular, and it seems that there is growing interest in traditional Japanese sake-making. Could you share your thoughts and message with foreign visitors to Japan about experiencing sake and other alcoholic beverages that represent Japan?
Foreign visitors to Japan are likely drawn by a wide range of experiences, each with its own appeal, such as sightseeing in scenic areas, shopping, theme parks, or interests in anime, games, and fashion. However, many also come to try Japanese food.
Japan’s regional food culture, passed down through generations, is extremely diverse and reflects the wisdom of how to live healthily within the natural environment of each region. We encourage foreign visitors to actively experience the unique local specialities wherever they go. In addition, sake made in breweries throughout Japan is known as ‘local sake’ (jizake), and is an essential part of each region's food culture. Be sure to try the local sake made together with the regional specialities—it’s sure to provide an unforgettable cultural experience.
Moreover, Japanese food culture has a side to it that blends traditional Japanese cuisine with food culture introduced from overseas. Examples include curry and rice, pork cutlets, and ramen. What makes Japan unique is how it has embraced and adapted various foreign dishes, developing and establishing them in its own way. I hope you will try these dishes in Japan and experience the fusion for yourself.
Food is something that everyone in the world experiences daily, and understanding food culture can help deepen exchanges and connections, not only between people who share a common food culture, but also between people from different countries or regions with distinct food cultures. In particular, sake and other alcoholic beverages representing Japan are also enjoyed as ‘food-friendly drinks’ that complement food, much like wine. They are said to have great potential for pairing, not only with Japanese cuisine, but also with a wide variety of foods from around the world. For example, I have heard that sake is increasingly being served in restaurants in Paris, France, a country known for its fine cuisine. If you find a sake you enjoy while travelling in Japan, you could try pairing it with food from your own country.
In addition to its food culture, Japan has many other fascinating and diverse culture aspects. We hope that visitors to Japan will explore its unique charms and discover their own ways of enjoying the country, including nihonshu and other alcoholic beverages that represent Japan.
Photo: ITO Akihiro
- 1. A type of mold that is grown on grains such as rice and wheat and has the ability to convert starch in the raw material into sugar.
- 2. A term for a sake brewer who may also provide technical guidance and oversee the sake brewing or distilling process.
- 3. A craftsman responsible for sake brewing or distilling under the supervision of the chief brewer or chief shochu master.
- 4. A traditional Japanese wedding ceremony where the bride and groom exchange three sets of cups three times each, for a total of 9 exchanges.
- 5. A ceremony to appease the spirits of the land and pray for the safety of construction work, held prior to the start of construction or civil engineering work.
- 6. International goals established to achievie a sustainable and better world by 2030, as set out in the ‘2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development’ adopted by all member states at the UN Summit in September 2015. These consist of 17 goals and 169 targets.
- 7. The remaining part after sake has been separated from the moromi, a mash made by fermenting koji, steamed rice, water, and yeast. It is rich in rice protein and amino acids from the yeast and is used as a flavouring and manufacturing ingredient.
Column: Do you know about ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’?
Skills related to ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’
In December 2024, ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’ was inscribed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity’.
‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making’ are characterised by the following three basic skills.
1. The skills to process the raw materials
Rice and water are the main ingredients of sake made using the ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan.’ First, the rice is washed thoroughly and soaked to absorb the right amount of water. After that, the water content is adjusted and the rice is steamed. These processes ensure that the rice reaches the perfect condition to be used in sake production.
Photo: Agency for Cultural Affairs
2. The skills to make koji
Koji is made by spreading spores of koji mold on steamed rice and allowing them to multiply. The koji bacteria breaks down the starch in grains such as rice into sugar. Making the koji is a crucial step that determines the quality of the sake. Brewers carefully observe the state of the koji and control the mold's growth by hand.
Photo: Agency for Cultural Affairs
3. The skills to control fermentation
The process of alcoholic fermentation is called ‘moromi making.’ Moromi is made by adding koji, steamed rice, water, and yeast (a microorganism that breaks down sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide). Brewers carefully observe the state of the mash and use a distinct method called multiple parallel fermentation* to achieve the desired flavour and aroma of the sake, without adding anything other than water.
* A fermentation method in which saccharification and fermentation occur simultaneously. This allows for a higher alcohol content (approximately 20%) than other brewed alcoholic beverages such as wine or beer.
Photo: Agency for Cultural Affairs
Sake brewed using ‘Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan’
The skills of sake-making, whose original forms were established more than 500 years ago, share the characteristic of using koji mold. These techniques have developed differently depending on the climate and land of various parts of Japan. They have been handed down through generations to produce nihonshu (brewed liquor), shochu or awamori (distilled liquors), and mirin (sweet sake used for seasoning).
How Nihonshu, Shochu/Awamori, Mirin are made
Photo: Agency for Cultural Affairs
1. Nihonshu
Nishonshu is a brewed alcoholic beverage mainly made with rice. The first reference to sake-making using the koji and rice mixture, which can be considered the original form of modern nihonshu, dates back to the early 8th century. It is believed that sake-making with koji became widely known around this time. In the latter half of the 15th century, techniques considered to be the original forms of modern sake-making were developed: dan-jikomi, where ingredients are added in stages, and hiire (pasteurization), where the ingredients are sterilized to extend the shelf-life of nihonshu.
Modern nihonshu is becoming more diverse. Some brewers sell different qualities based on the production method, such as ginjo-shu, junmai-shu, and honjouzo-shu*. There are also nama-zake (non-pasteurized sake), nigori-zake (cloudy sake), sparkling sake, and aged sake. Both warming and chilling the nihonshu are popular ways to enjoy it.
* Ginjo-shu:Sake made using the ginjo-zukuri method, in which rice is polished to a ratio of 60% is fermented at a lower temperature and for a longer period of time than usual.
Junmai-shu:Sake is made from rice, rice koji, and water. The umami and body of the rice are brought out without adding brewing alcohol.
Honjouzo-shu:Sake made from polished rice with a milling ratio of 70% or less, rice koji, and brewing alcohol, resulting in a well-balanced aroma, flavor, and color. The amount of brewing alcohol is limited to 10% or less of the weight of the polished rice.
2. Shochu and Awamori
Shochu and awamori are distilled alcoholic beverages that include a distillation process in addition to both the koji-making and moromi-making processes. The technique of distillation is believed to have been introduced to Okinawa Prefecture around the 15th century. Modern shochu is separated into types depending on the distillation equipment used: the traditional pot distillation shochu or the continuous distillation shochu, which was developed in the 19th century. Many pot distillation shochu use koji , similar to nihonshu, but most use black or white koji mold, rather than yellow koji mold.
3. Mirin
Mirin is a mixed alcoholic beverage primarily made from glutinous rice, koji, and shochu. There are several theories regarding its origins, but it was enjoyed by the wealthy as a rare sweet alcoholic beverage by the end of the 16th century. Literature referencing the use of mirin in cooking became more common from the latter half of the17th century.
Photo: Agency for Cultural Affairs; ITO Akihiro; PIXTA