So have you taken the screen off the Neo completely, so that you can re-utilise the space?

If you wanted to reflash the original, where would you find it? I guess you need to print out your calibrations, so that youc an re-enter them in Klipper, or when reverting.

So have you taken the screen off the Neo completely, so that you can re-utilise the space?

Exactly, I removed it completely (also the cable) and used that holder to mount the smartphone. I'll add a picture of it tomorrow in the Klipper chapter.

If you wanted to reflash the original, where would you find it? I guess you need to print out your calibrations, so that youc an re-enter them in Klipper, or when reverting.

Stock firmware: https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/firmware/fw_marlin/
Don't know what you mean with the second sentence though. If you wanna go back to stock fw from Klipper, you just flash the stock firmware.bin from Anycubic for the Neo and that's it.

Please read the chapters and the reddit thread I linked to, it's everything described there imho.
EDIT: I just updated the description https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/firmware/fw_klipper/#installation so maybe it becomes more clear now..

I guess you need to print out your calibrations, so that you an re-enter them in Klipper, or when reverting.

I meant the stock calibrations are (from memory) X80 Y80 Z80 E400. My calibrated values are slightly different. That's all.

Ah ok, got it. Well, sure you can do that, but you'd have to do the calibrations anyway again and you have to calculate and set the value for the rotation distance instead of the steps in Klipper: https://www.klipper3d.org/Rotation_Distance.html
The values are preconfigured in the mentioned cfg-files on the reddit post, so you can start with that as well..

What do you mean by bootloader? To the mainboard? No.
You have to create and flash the firmware.bin file to the MCU/mainboard as described in the reddit post I linked to (and like you'd do if you'd update the stock firmware).
Then you'll need a host system (like a RPi, ThinClient, old laptop or so) to install e.g. Mainsail for accessing and configuring Klipper. This is necessary as it communicates with the Klipper firmware of your mainboard, you won't be able to use the printer without it.

This is what I mean by flashing a bootloader. It means you can reflash direct from your Arduino IDE over a USB cable.

https://letsprint3d.net/guide-how-to-flash-a-bootloader-on-melzi-boards/

No need to mess around with the mainboard. Iirc the MCU isn't supported by ArduinoIDE anyway and you're creating the necessary firmware.bin-file of Klipper as how it's described in the official documentation I linked to from the page.

As I already said and how it's described at my pages and in the thread: compile the bin-file following the instructions (note the mentioned settings for MCU and serial in the Installation chapter and/or the reddit post), flash Klipper's firmware.bin from mSD card, take it out and then connect the printer with Klipper to your RPi which has OctoPrint/Mainsail/.. running.

Same procedure as when you wanna go back to stock fw: just flash it using the mSD card and you're good as described here https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/firmware/fw_marlin/#update-procedure

Again: please read the chapters and follow the links, I can't and don't want to describe everything again here as it's already explained at the pages..

Yes, you could continue using OctoPrint, that's fine and no problem, it's even the software they refer to on their documentation page when it comes down to checking the basic functions and showing screenshots of it.
However, I personally switched to Mainsail with using Klipper as it's pretty much tailored for Klipper. With Octo for example you'd need to SSH into the Pi for uploading your files like the printer.cfg, also if you need to change settings (which you'll have to) and you want to edit that file, you'd have to do so on your computer and then SHH into the Pi again and upload it. Maybe there's also a plugin for that in Octo, but for me that was too much of a hassle. Mainsail does have an inbuilt editor which makes everything just super easy and comfortable. You can also create and edit macros there, already have the heightmap function inbuilt, the tabs of Octo (which always bothered me) are gone and so on. You can also use thumbnail previes of your model files if you activate that in the slicer (dunno if Cura can do that tho, but SuperSlicer does).
As I said, it's tailored for Klipper usage, so imho the best solution. (Not to mention the much nicer look&feel of it imho.)
I wrote a bit about it here: https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/firmware/fw_klipper/#octoprint-mainsail-or-fluidd
I'll probably add screenshots and some specific tips for Mainsail&SuperSlicer there as well soon..
If you have another mSD card, just install MainsailOS using RaspberryPiImager and give it a try - I'd bet you'll like and prefer it.. ;) If you don't like it (what I'd doubt), swap out the cards and you're back to Octo..

If you have another mSD card, just install MainsailOS using RaspberryPiImager and give it a try - I'd bet you'll like and prefer it.. ;) If you don't like it (what I'd doubt), swap out the cards and you're back to Octo..

Great idea. I have several.

So I created a Mainsail build just from Raspberry Pi Imager and it worked perfectly. Just used the imager to set up WiFi and everything. So that was amazingly easy and just worked. Now Klipper.....

If you have to criticize the post, please do so at reddit, not here. I'm not responsible for the post.

Besides that, it really seems like you don't even try to read carefully (neither the whole thread of that post from xpeng121 nor my pages) or even try to use Gooogle..

I linked to the installation docs of Klipper https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/firmware/fw_klipper/#installation in the fourth sentence:

Bildschirmfoto von 2023年03月08日 09-18-59

Also Google puts it out in big letter as first search result by just looking for "klipper":
Bildschirmfoto von 2023年03月08日 09-17-23

Also in the thread itself the links are mentioned in the second and third answer right below the initial post:
Bildschirmfoto von 2023年03月08日 09-09-56

There are also tons of YouTube videos and articles as well about how to compile Klipper firmware in general.

However, even tho my pages aren't about repeating the official installation guide or about how to set up/adjust the printer.cfg later (so don't expect that, neither at my pages nor here btw..), I'll probably add a more detailed description when I find the time to do so.

So if you can't or don't want to invest some time getting yourself informed about the general compilation process, you probably have to ask at the reddit post or wait until/if I'll add a more detailed step-by-step description at my page and continue using the stock firmware. But also then you'd still have to read attentively - I'm afraid you won't get around that. No offense.

And just as a kind 'warning' (even tho it's already mentioned at my page as well):
Klipper isn't like "copy that cfg-file and start printing" - you'd have to check the settings and adjust them to your specific machine and needs.
E.g. when you want to adjust the e-steps, you'd also have to do this using a formula to get the rotation distance which involves reading the official documentation as well.
So if that's nothing for you and you don't have any problems right now using the stock firmware, you probably shouldn't switch to Klipper then..

Hi Ulf, thanks for responding. Sorry.

You will have a detailed description in a day or two, as soon as I get through this.

tons of YouTube videos and articles

... are not really my thing.

A nice clear list is.

It's ok, it's just that I can't take the "effort of reading" off of you so to say and the procedure is described at the official documentation which is linked to and about which you complained to not have any links.

Thanks for the offer about the description, but I'll do it myself tho (also here: don't get me wrong, no offense, I appreciate the offer - it's just that I prefer doing something like this on my own ;) ).

I just created a repo where you can find the compiled file soon, in case you prefer to not compile it by your own. It's the file I flashed my Neo with and it works, but keep in mind that you'd use it at your own risk. So if you prefer to compile it on your own to be sure that you did everything right and don't wanna risk using an already compiled file, it's fine of yourse..
Here's the link: https://github.com/1coderookie/Klipper4KobraGoNeo - maybe check it out later as I don't have time right now to write and upload the stuff, hopefully will get it done soon tho..

Update:
Files klipper.bin added, printer.cfg also added.
Other .cfg files like gcode.cfg not yet but you can find them at the mentioned thread.

As I said before: use at your own risk tho..

You need to build it from that computer where you downloaded the Klipper repo for being able to run the "make menuconfig" out of the klipper directory - imho that's pretty clear in the official documentation.

About the slightly different printer.cfg files: as mentioned you need to work yourself trough the configuration of the file as it needs to fit your machine and needs. Even though they're the same, some wants to use different spots for the ABL, different z-offsets, different whatever. In my file you'll also finde the "screws_tilt_calibrate" section (at pretty much the end of the file) for manual bed leveling which I do in addition to the ABL - others don't..
Same goes for the include files - I personally added some I'm using , others didn't. Again you also need to check and decide what you want, have or generate by yourself and therefore want to include that. It's all explained at the official doc..

Congrats that you made it :)

• Now you get an error in Mainsail that "Option 'control' in section 'heater_bed' must be specified". This will fix that (in the right sections respectively). Copied from codeneobee again here:
  `
  [extruder]
  control = pid
  pid_kp = 18.247
  pid_ki = 0.929
  pid_kd = 89.640

   [heater_bed]
   control = pid
   pid_kp = 59.562
   pid_ki = 1.013
   pid_kd = 875.5
  

Dunno why you got that error message actually as I don't have it configured in the 'manual' section and didn't get it, in my config it's in the auto-generated section at the very end. That's at least the place to be imho for the values, as they'll be changed and updated whenever you do a PID tune for the bed and save it to the config.

That's a good idea! Is your mainboard fan working @ptrstourac ?

Sorry for taking so long to reply (exam period on my university is kinda exhausting). From my tests, it seems to happen when running printer on higher speeds (like 70-80 mm/s). Steppers are running cool and mainboard fan works too.

I wasn ́t able to catch the exact moment when this issue happens, but I suppose it happens when extruder looses a step, so it just disables. Tried loosening the idler, even to that level I had problem with under-extrusion. Still had this problem.

Wonder if tinkering with E-stepper current might solve this issue. Since my Y-axis was losing steps even when having the bed belt and wheels tightened correctly, I had to increase current for this particular stepper.

I'd be surprised if it's really the vref actually, but I also never heard that anyone had to increase vref for the y-axis yet.
I assume you triple-checked the connections and the wiring, right?
Which material and at which temp are you printing? Afaik, printing too cold can also cause skipping steps.
Did you maybe also check the feeder gear, if everything is correctly assembled and still ok there?

Sorry for taking so long to reply (exam period on my university is kinda exhausting). From my tests, it seems to happen when running printer on higher speeds (like 70-80 mm/s). Steppers are running cool and mainboard fan works too.

I wasn ́t able to catch the exact moment when this issue happens, but I suppose it happens when extruder looses a step, so it just disables. Tried loosening the idler, even to that level I had problem with under-extrusion. Still had this problem.

Wonder if tinkering with E-stepper current might solve this issue. Since my Y-axis was losing steps even when having the bed belt and wheels tightened correctly, I had to increase current for this particular stepper.

You can try to check the vref by using the multimeter to measure the voltage between potentiometer housing and ground if you are comfortable with that.
For me my stock vref for all drivers is around 0.72v. This should be able to print at 2k accel and about 100mm/s.
I bump my vref now to 0.9v for the moment axis and 1.1v for the extruder because this is the highest my stepper can handle with a reasonable temp.
I think 0.8v will be a great start point if you want to mess around with. But just be careful! A bad vref can kill your driver and stepper! You should read some article and watch some videos about how to adjust vref on TMC2208.

Yes, i had everything checked more than twice. Happens when printing common materials (PLA/PETG), even with PA. Bumping the temperatures was one of my first troubleshooting steps, but still, not a solution to this problem.

I will see what results tinkering with the Vref yields, already changed it to 0.85V from stock 0.7V, but haven't had time to do some test prints. Since I have quite a lot of experience with it, so don't worry i'll destroy something. ;-)

I'll let you know when i print something with newly set Vref.

Would Klipper still be "better" than Marlin if Linear Advance and Input Shaping worked in the Marlin build? I'm going to have a look at the general differences between these two...

Well, I never dealt with a Marlin version that is actually capable of it, so I can't say a lot about it.
But: Klipper still allows you to adjust the settings in the firmware by just adjusting the printer.cfg without the need of recompiling the bin and flashing the mobo every time, so that's a plus already.
Besides that, Klipper works kinda different than Marlin, as it processes the file on the host and then just sends the commands to the MCU of the printer instead of processing the file on the printer's mobo. But tbh, I don't remember all that exactly anymore and would have to do further research again as well..

Sounds pretty cool, especially being able to modify the config "OTG" instead of having to recompile everything. I'll have a look at it when I've got time again.

Yes, it really is. But use Mainsail (or Fluidd), don't go with OctoPrint when using Klipper ;)

Btw: Thanks again for the donation yesterday - I immediately spent it on longer spacers this morning for raising my bed on the K2Pro for adding the insulation, so no treat for the cats this time 😸

You're welcome 😺

You're on Windows 12?? 😆

You're on Windows 12?? 😆

No, I use 11, but I am intristed in the windows 12 conwepts, so my name on the klipper forum is windows12

Ooooh my god, I'm sorry. Totally misread that 🤦🏻‍♂️ 😄

You need to set the z-offset for both the endstop (which will be z-offset of the actual 1st layer then) and the ABL sensor (which is only to show an accurate mesh etc). Read this chapter https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/firmware/fw_klipper/#z-offset and set both offsets by following the Klipper docs.
If you then adjust the z-offset for the 1st layer by using additional g-code or by setting it in the firmware is up to you. I personally always do it via MainsailUI: adjust the height using the buttons while printing and when done, save that to the endstop.