7.31.2011
Up North: Black Cherry and Pecan Ice Cream
We were a family of boaters and when I was younger we spent part of every summer on the Great Lakes, Georgian Bay and in the Little Traverse Bay area. The latter meant we saw a lot of the busy summer resort towns of Petoskey, Charlevoix and Harbour Springs. There are several restaurants and hotels in those three towns owned by Staffords and over the years we've enjoyed eating and staying at every one of them. When I go up now, I usually stay in Petoskey at Stafford's Bay View Inn.
A candy and ice cream company you may be familiar with named Kilwins (which has been around since the 40's) used to make a very special ice cream only for the Stafford establishments: Black Cherry. Staffords became famous for it. It was ambrosial and we always saved room for dessert when we visited any of their restaurants. Still do. As far back as I can remember, everyone in my family looked forward to a dish of that ice cream (particularly my dad).
A few years ago, when my sister and I were lunching at the Stafford's Weathervane restaurant in Charlevoix, we got into a conversation with the manager and asked why we had never been able to buy a cone of that wonderful ice cream at Kilwin's in town. He told us that Kilwin's, after many years, asked the same question; indeed, they wanted to offer it to their customers, who had been asking for it for ages. Of course, I have no idea what Stafford's contract with Kilwin's was, but we were informed by the manager that the Kilwin/Stafford black cherry ice cream arrangement was over. Staffords turned to a company in the Traverse City area and asked if they would make it for them. Perhaps Staffords owns the recipe? I have no idea. As far as I know, the Traverse City company still does the supplying. And it's every bit as fabulous as it ever was.
So, if you happen to be up north near a Staffords establishment, be sure to order their black cherry ice cream for dessert. If you're near a Kilwin's, you can now buy their version of it, but I'm quite sure it's not the same as the black cherry Stafford's serves. Because Florida beggars can't be choosers, when Kilwin's opened in my area, I kept my fingers crossed; their black cherry was perhaps close enough to the original.....satisfaction might be at hand. Or so I thought. Guess what? They don't carry black cherry in their Florida stores at all! Ever. :(
Lately I've been experimenting with different recipes and finally came up with one I really like, but trust me when I say....it's just not the same. Could it be nothing tastes as good as it does when I'm in northern Michigan? After all, we must factor memories in with that ice cream and Stafford's black cherry has many years of happy memories attached to it. At any rate, this is as good as it's going to get until I visit the north country again.
Black Cherry Ice Cream with Toasted Pecans
Ingredients:
For the cherries:
1 pound fresh black cherries
1 1/2 cups water
1 cup sugar
a squeeze of lemon juice
For the ice cream:
1 cup half and half
2 cups heavy cream
1 (14 oz.) can sweetened condensed milk
1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste
1 cup cherries, prepared as directed below
3/4 cup toasted pecans, roughly chopped
red food coloring, optional
Method:
Stem and pit the cherries and place in a saucepan with the water and sugar. Bring to a boil and simmer for 25 minutes. Stir frequently. Remove from heat and add the lemon juice.
Cool. You can keep refrigerated for a couple weeks if you wish.
When ready to use, let the cherries drain in a sieve. (You can use the leftover syrup in drinks.) Chop the cherries.
In a bowl, whisk the creams and sweetened condensed milk well. Add the chopped cherries and pecans and, if you like your ice cream a definite pink, a drop of food gel.
Freeze according to manufacturers directions.
7.28.2011
Raspberry Muffins
Flour is the most divine cookbook, isn't it? I'd like to do a Julie/Julia thing with it, but I know my limitations. :) On the other hand, I often turn to Joanne Chang for ideas and inspiration.
Recently I was reading Food 52 (which I hope you know about and at least read if you haven't joined) and someone had made an adaptation of Chang's Raspberry Rhubarb muffins. Because I have that treasured copy of Flour I looked it up to see what changes were made. I liked both the adaptations: browning the butter can't help but improve the flavor of the muffins and the Food 52 recipe used buttermilk instead of Chang's milk. Sounded good to me.
I've always thought Chang's use of crème fraiche in her batter was a clever idea so I didn't hesitate to combine that with the buttermilk. I didn't have any rhubarb, so I added an extra half cup of raspberries. (BTW, the Food 52 recipe is HERE.)
Not too sweet, which I like in a muffin, and they were moist and tender. Served warm with butter, you can't beat them for Sunday brunch. If you have rhubarb in your garden, use a cup of fresh raspberries and a cup of chopped fresh rhubarb.
Chang suggests filling the muffin liners right to the top and the image displayed in the book has HUGE overflowing muffin tops. Like mushrooms. I decided to use two kinds of paper liners that are deeper than normal, so only filled mine 3/4 full. They could have taken a bit more. So if you're using regular liners, fill them almost to the top.
Joanne Chang's Raspberry Muffins
From Flour and Food 52
Ingredients:
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 3/4 cup all purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup milk or buttermilk, room temperature
1/2 cup crème fraiche, room temperature
1 large egg, room temperature
1 egg yolk, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste (or vanilla extract)
1 1/2 cups fresh raspberries
Method:
Melt the butter and allow to brown. Watch carefully, as it burns quickly after a certain point. Set aside to cool to room temperature.
Preheat oven to 350°. Line your muffin tin with paper liners.
Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In another bowl, mix the sugar, buttermilk and crème fraiche. Add the eggs and egg yolk and mix until blended. Then add the browned butter and vanilla bean paste.
Fold in the flour mixture and add the raspberries when it is still not completely combined. Mix until all the dry ingredients are gone, but do not overmix.
Spoon into your muffin cups and bake for about 25 minutes or until a baking tester comes out clean. This recipe made 12 muffins.
Cool on a rack, if you can bear to allow them to cool! :)
7.25.2011
Israeli Couscous with Olives and Roasted Tomatoes
Israeli couscous is also known as ptitim. It was invented during the austerity period in Israel, when rice was scarce. (I was surprised to read it's mainly a children's dish in Israel. Certainly not the case here, where it's considered a "gourmet" item.) It's made of semolina pellets about the size of peppercorns. The little balls are much chewier than the smallest (Moroccan) couscous and holds up better to sauces- even in a cold salad—there's no mush. I read a quote recently comparing Israeli couscous to Moroccan couscous: " It's akin to the difference between steel-cut oats and quick-cook oatmeal, but maybe even more extreme."
I had seen this recipe using Israeli couscous in Gourmet magazine, cut it out and then it languished in my file. When I recently walked into Williams Sonoma and saw a display of all three kinds of couscous, I remembered the recipe, bought the Israeli couscous and gave it a try.
The tomato vinaigrette was marvelous. Roasting tomatoes always gives them such a wonderful depth of flavor. I've done it many times to make my caprese salad, but it never occurred to me to make a vinaigrette with them. As it happened, I took this dish to a pot luck lunch. Nobody had ever eaten anything like it, everyone loved it and asked where to buy the couscous. They'd only made dishes with the Moroccan type. This was such a success, I'm going to try the Lebanese couscous next. Any favorite recipes out there?
Israeli Couscous with Olives and Roasted Tomatoes
Gourmet, September 2002
Ingredients:
For roasted tomatoes and dressing:
2 pints red grape or cherry tomatoes (1 1/2 lb)
3 large garlic cloves, left unpeeled
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup warm water
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
For couscous:
2 and 3/4 cups chicken broth
2 and 1/4 cups Israeli couscous
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup Kalamata or other brine-cured black olives, pitted and chopped
1/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
Method:
To roast tomatoes and make dressing:
Preheat oven to 250°F.
Halve tomatoes through stem ends and arrange, cut sides up, in 1 layer in a large shallow (1-inch-deep) baking pan. Add garlic to pan and roast in middle of oven until tomatoes are slightly shriveled around edges, about 1 hour. Cool in pan on a rack 30 minutes.
Peel garlic and puree with oil, water, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and 1/2 cup of the roasted tomatoes (reserve the rest) in a blender until dressing is very smooth.
Make the couscous:
Bring broth to a boil in a 3-quart heavy saucepan and stir in couscous, then simmer, uncovered, 6 minutes. Cover pan and remove from heat. Let stand 10 minutes. Spread couscous in 1 layer on a baking sheet and cool 15 minutes.
Put it all together:
Transfer couscous to a bowl and stir in the olives, parsley, mint and thyme, the dressing, the reserved roasted tomatoes and salt and pepper to taste. Serves 6.
Do ahead: Roasted tomatoes, dressing, and couscous can be made 1 day ahead and kept separately, covered and chilled. Bring to room temperature before proceeding.
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