Thanks @bsafh for the idea. I've added the three you suggested to the page.

Thanks for catching that! I've updated the Box Turtle comparison. To keep the comparisons even, I'm using US dollars for all prices.

Yep, sure. That's 300 US-$ for the "BOM in the box" and another 300 for the printed parts if you want to buy that as well (but it's available at least, printing yourself might take weeks, looking at the number and size of the parts ...
I like the servo driven rewind though, no buffers, less space occupied ...

Yes. It will work with any printer running Klipper.

@aberry08 Thanks for the suggestion. I've updated this page.

The chromahead may be the weak point. Not because it’s bad, it isn’t, but because the nozzle is proprietary

Hi @SelfDefenseForce,

Thank you for the tip. I added PicoMMU, MMX, QuattroBox, and NightOwl.

Hi @the427boss ,

Firstly, some sort of gate endstop is required. This means you must have a sensor directly after the Y-splitter or directly before your printer's extruder. These designs vary from printer to printer, but the Filatector is a good universal one.

Also, yes, the kits do not include sensors because each printer requires a different design. Take a Voron, for example, with the Stealthburner head. It would probably use the extruder entry sensor mod designed for the ERCF. A Prusa, however, has a filament sensor built-in from the initial build, so you don't need to add any additional sensors.

I can update the configuration page to make this clearer.

Hi @SelfDefenseForce ,

No worries. Toolchangers are a completely different approach to multimaterial printing, which is why I don't have comparisons for those. Best of luck!

The recommended setup for a filament cutter is to have one in your toolhead, like a Filametrix, but if you want one close to the 3MS, I would recommend looking at the BT Snappy and modifying it to fit the 3MS.