A good test is to nock your arrow and, with your finger, grab the
nocking loop, pull the string back about half an inch and release.
Most often this is caused by debris stuck to the arrow, so always check a shaft before
nocking it.
Most archers refer to a string
nocking loop simply as "the loop." It is a piece of light cord tied above and below the spot where the arrow's nock snaps on the string.
With two-cam bows, I make sure my
nocking point is centered between my axles and the cams are timed perfectly to guarantee an even pull from each end of the bow.
Each shot starts with a carefully established
nocking point.
Once you have checked your fit, the next thing to check is the position of the
nocking points themselves.
Nock-crimping pliers help install and remove standard brass
nocking points without damaging either the serving or
nocking point.
A
nocking loop totally contains the nock and eliminates this variable.
Most bow setups today have a
nocking loop installed for the release aid.
Let me use an example: when paper tuning a bow with a nock-high-left tear, most archers would try to correct it all at once by making several changes, like raising their
nocking point, moving the arrow rest laterally, and changing the spring tension of the arrow rest.
The problem that plagues us most is the peep sight and/or
nocking loop changing location.
AS A BOWSTRING accelerates an arrow forward, the
nocking point should travel in a straight line.