Grace Hoeman

Grace Jansen Hoeman (1921– April 12, 1971) was an American mountaineer and pioneering female mountain climber. A doctor, she made a number of first ascents in Alaska. Hoeman led the first all-female expedition to Denali in 1970. She died in an avalanche while climbing Eklutna Glacier in Alaska.

Grace Jansen was born in Silver Beach, Washington. At age 4, she moved to Europe with her parents. As a child, she survived myocarditis and tuberculosis.^[1] In 1944, she earned a bachelors of medicine degree from the University of Berlin. In Berlin, she trained in surgery and gynecology.^[1] In 1948 she earned her doctorate in Medicine from University of Utrecht.^[2] Her first husband died in World War II and a second marriage ended in divorce.^[1]

In 1950, Jansen returned to the United States where she worked in upstate New York. She later attended Yale University where in 1953 she earned a Masters in Public Health. She went on to teach preventative medicine in Buffalo, New York, worked for the Erie County Health Department^[3] and later entered a residency at Syracuse University.^[4]

In 1965, she began practicing anaesthesiology in Anchorage, Alaska where she began climbing mountains in earnest. On December 30, 1966, she married John Vincent Hoeman, a climber and naturalist.^{[5] [6]} She made over 120 ascents in Alaska with her husband Vin Hoeman, including 20 first ascents. Five first ascents were made solo.^[2]

In 1968, Grace and her husband Vin summited three days after the first summit of Mount Igikpak.^[7] That year, she accompanied her husband on a four person expedition of the first traverse of the Harding Icefield.^[8]

In 1969, she summitted Mount Rainier, as well as Orizaba and Chimborazo.^[2] That year, she aimed to accompany her husband to Dhaulagiri where he would ultimately lead an unsuccessful climbing expedition that led to his death. Due to her gender, Grace Hoeman was unable to join the expedition.^[9]

Grace Hoeman was distraught after her husband's death, especially as she was unable to join him on the failed expedition. Hoeman dedicated her life to finishing her husband's unfinished work writing a guide to the highest peaks in all 50 states.^[5]

In June 1969 she made a first summit of Alaska's Mount Kimball.^[10]

In 1970, Hoeman led a group of women to the first successful all-female summit of Denali via the West Buttress Route.^{[2] [11]} Alongside Hoeman, the climbing party included Arlene Blum, Margaret Clark, Faye Kerr, Dana Joan Isherwood, and Margaret Young.^[12] They were known as the "Denali Damsels".^[13] During the descent, Hoeman collapsed at 19,500 feet, and was pulled to safety by her team. They later descended the mountain safely.^[12]

In 1971, Hoeman and climbing partners John Samuelson and Hans van der Laan made a ski touring expedition traversing the Eklutna Glacier outside of Anchorage.^[14] The trio were well-prepared for the trek, which aimed to reach the community of Girdwood. Hoeman and van der Laan were killed on April 12 by an avalanche while traversing a slope.^[15] Hoeman and van der Laan's remains were found in the summer of 1971 when snow melted and exposed their bodies.^[14]

Hoeman was survived by two daughters and three grandchildren.^[2]

• Barbara Washburn, first woman to climb Mount Denali

• Grace and John Vincent Hoeman papers, University of Alaska Archives and Special Collections

• 1921 births
• 1971 deaths
• Sportspeople from Washington (state)
• American female mountain climbers
• Deaths in avalanches
• Sports deaths in Alaska
• Yale University alumni
• Humboldt University of Berlin alumni
• Utrecht University alumni
• American female climbers
• 20th-century American sportswomen

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• Short description is different from Wikidata
• Articles with hCards