Processing your own black & white super 8mm, double-8mm. or 16mm. films is quite easy. But it also depends on the chemicals you're using. For example these instructions are for reversal processing KODAK PLUS-X Reversal Film 7265 and TRI-X Reversal Film 7266. I have used the Lomo spiral reel tank for processing and made the chemicals myself.
Find a super 8 developing tank on eBay or there is also the possiblity to build one yourself from PVC drain pipes or from an old 35mm. film can.
No more Kodachrome K40
Processing K40 in Lausanne, Switzerland has seized... If you read somewhere that Dwaynesphoto still process them, I have to disappoint you... they have discontinued processing Kodachrome in 2010. However, they still process other movie film types.
NEW: Process super-8 like a pro with this Jobo 3018 Expert Super 8 processing drum.
Processing Kodachrome K40 still possible
You can still process your kodachrome (in black/white) at pro8mm.com (scroll down for link) or filmrescue.com! Find instructions to develop yourself with Dagie Brundert.
Opening a super 8mm film cartridge
Now for the DIY-ers out there. I went to a drugstore for some ingredients, but here is a list with Kodak chemicals. Temperature: Around 24.4°C (76°F).
On many websites, you read about 'using a hammer' or breaking the cartridge and remove the film. I know an easier way. Just break the core. While holding the last end of the film, turn the core of the cartridge in the opposite direction until you here a 'snap', then you can pull the film out easily without opening the cartridge. In fact, you don't have to touch the film at all (and spoil it with fingerprints), because you can hold the cartridge while you turn the reel of the Lomo tank. Practice with an old exposed cartridge first!
b/w method #1: the official Kodak released instructions:
- KODAK B&W Reversal First Developer and Replenisher (D-94A) 60 sec.
- wash with water 30 sec.
- KODAK B&W Reversal Bleach and Replenisher (R-10) 60 sec.
- wash with water 30 sec.
- Clearing Bath 30 sec.
- wash with water 30 sec.
- re-exposure (500W at 3 feet) 1 min.
NOW YOU CAN WORK IN DAYLIGHT ->
- Second Developer
KODAK B&W Reversal Developer and Replenisher (D-95) 30 sec.
- wash with water 30 sec.
- fixer 30 sec.
- final wash with water 3 min.
---------------------------------------------------------
b/w method #2:
This is what I use with my 100ft. LOMO processing tank:
Chemicals (be careful preparing them, preferable in a well ventilated room!)
- 1st and 2nd developer: Tetenal Dokumol (1 + 9 water)
- Bleach: Add 10 gr. of K2Cr207 (Potassium Dichromate) to 400 ml. of warm water. Then add 10 ml. of Sulfiric Acid (96%) to 400 ml. cold water (important: never add water to the sulfuric acid, but always the acid to the water!). Mix the two solutions + water until you have 1 liter.
- Clearing bath: Mix 40 grams of Na2SO3 Sodium Sulfite with 1 liter warm water.
- Fix bath: Just a normal film or paper fix works just fine.
- 1st developer (1+9 Dokumol): 6 min.
- wash with water 1 min..
- Bleach: 2 min.
- wash with water 2 min..
- Clearing Bath: 2 min.
- wash with water: 1 min.
- re-exposure (500W at 3 feet) 1-2 min.(doesn't matter really how long)
NOW YOU CAN WORK IN DAYLIGHT ->
- 2nd developer (1+9 Dokumol): 2 min.
- wash with water 1 min..
- fixer 2-3 min. (does't matter really how long)
- final wash with water 5-10 min.
Hang the film to dry! That's it. Practice your skills first before processing that feature film ;-)!
color (3 methods) processing super 8 film
color method #1:
I found the following information on Ken Paul Rosenthal's website, and has not been tested by me. Just for reference or for you to try @ home.
Chemicals:
- 1 Tetenal E6 Slide Kit by Jobo
- 4 1-liter brown, collapsible photochemical containers
OR
- 1 Fuji Hunt Chrome 6X Processing Kit
- 7 5-Liter brown photochemical containers (or equivalent)
35mm 2 or 4-reel stainless steel developing tank (2-reel develops one 50 foot roll of Super 8 at a time, 4-reel develops one or two rolls at a time.)
11 x 14 x 4 inch deep plastic tray (a cat box will do - it's cheaper than a large photo tray)
1 Flat-top thermometer
1 Measuring graduate
1 Pair rubber gloves
1 Pair scissors
1 Hammer
1 Apron
1 Length string
1 Blow-dryer
1 Pair Goggles
1 NIOSH/MSHA certified Respirator
Do your developing in a room with running water that can be made light tight. Bathrooms work best, and windows in them can be covered with material from a photo shop, or anything that you improvise. You may want to wait until dark and turn the lights off in adjoining rooms - whatever works for you and your space. Make sure the space is well ventilated.
Safety Precautions
The main thing to remember about safety is that we're playing with chemicals that are harmful to skin, lungs, and the environment. Your best defense is a well-ventilated space. You may also want to get ahold of the following:
- rubber gloves
- an apron
- a pair goggles
- a NIOSH/MSHA certified respirator
You can also order these pamphlets free of charge from Kodak (1-800-242-2424 x25):
- "Safe Handling of Photograhic Chemicals"
- "The Prevention of Contact Dermatitis in Photographic Work"
- "The Environmental Emergency Card"
Step by Step Instructions
To develop film:
- Follow the kit instructions for mixing the chemicals, and label the datatainers. Chemicals can be mixed and stored ahead of time. Make sure to squeeze any air out of the top of the datatainers, to help preserve the chemicals. All the chemicals, including the bleach, can be reused for up to 10 rolls of film or more (maybe only 3 rolls if using the b&w kit to develop Kodachrome).
- Place the datatainers in the large tray and fill the tray with water that is hotter than the temperature range that the kit prescribes for the chemicals. After a few minutes, test the temperature of the chemicals, and make any adjustments to the water in the tray so that it brings the chemicals to the right temperature.
- Gather your materials, particularily the hammer, Super 8 cartridge(s), and developing tank. You won't need the reel holder inside the tank, just the tank and its lid.
- Make your space light tight and turn off the lights. Let your eyes adjust, and look for light leaks. Fix any before proceeding.
- For Super 8: In total darkness, hold the Super 8 cartridge on an angle against a hard surface so that the edge of one side rests on the surface.
- Strike the cartridge with the hammer on its upturned edge. You may need to strike it 3 or more times to crack it. Then pry open the cartridge and locate the spool of film inside.
- Remove and completely unravel the spool of film, remove it from the core, briefly rinse it (optional - facilitates solution flow), bunch it up, and stuff it into the developing tank. Put the lid on the tank securely , and then turn on the lights. (Now that you don't need the room to be light tight, you can open the door and window to improve ventilation.)
- Follow kit instructions for processing. The times the kit gives are for from the time the chemical is first poured into the tank until the time that the next chemical is poured. Use the funnel to put the chemicals back into the datatainers. When developing b&w film, follow the fix with a few minutes of Hypoclear, which will cut the rinse time down to 4 minutes.
- After rinsing, hang the film up on a line or shower rod and blow dry.
- When dry, find the tail end of the film, which will read "exposed." Spool the film onto a reel (the sprocket holes are closest to you when spooling from underneath the reel left to right).
- Attach leader and run it through your projector.
The following two methods I found on the webpage of mr. Martin W. Baumgarten:
color method #2:
Process your film in E-6 chemistry at the normally specified times, with the following additions to the steps:
- Prewash, water only, 1 minute at 102°F(within +/- 5°F)
- FIRST DEVELOPER, normal time of 6 minutes @ 100.4°F (time based on your own density and color tests)
- 1st Stop Bath, 30 sec to 1 minute at 95°F-105
- Water Rinse, 2 minutes at 95°F - 105°F (removes any acid traces)
- REVERSAL BATH, 2 minutes at 95°F -105°F
- COLOR DEVELOPER, normal time of 6 minutes @ 100.4°F (temp range can run from 100°F to 110°F, but must be kept consistant and based on your color tests. Increasing temp shifts color to Green range). Color Developer can be modified prior to processing by mixing it 20% stronger....thus mix it to 80% of its solution quantity. You can always add more water to dilute it as necessary to modify color.
- 2nd Stop Bath (do NOT interchange these Stop Baths!!!) 30 sec to 1 minute
- Water Rinse, 2 minutes, at 95°F - 105°F
- PRE-BLEACH (previously was Conditioner Bath), 95°F - 105°F, 2 minutes
- BLEACH, 6 minutes at 95°F - 105°F range
- Water Rinse, 1 minute at 95°F - 105°F range [although a water rinse isn't critical at this point....it will help minimize carryover into the Fixer and prolong it's life]
- FIXER, 4 minutes at 95°F - 105°F
- Wash, 4 minutes at 95°F - 105°F
- E-6 FINAL RINSE (was Stabilizer Bath) at 30 sec - 1 minute, ambient room temp....but best if at 90°F - 100°F range, not critical to do it this way though.
- Dry by hanging on film drying rack in dust free space at room temperature. Gently squeege film using a soft clean film chamois that has been moistened and rung out in the Final Rinse solution. This will help avoid water drying spots; especially if you did not use distilled water to mix up the Final Rinse solution. Can also be blow dryed using a clean hair dryer (purchased ONLY for darkroom use, and best if a filter material is taped over the air input) at the LOW setting, keeping the blow dryer moving back and forth and rotating the film drying rack. When the hair dryer has cooled, store it in a ziplock bag to prevent dust from settling in it. This way it's always clean. Although, I recommend letting the film air dry if at all possible.
color method #3:
If you are using 3-Step E-6 chemistry....process control is much more limited, but you can still follow similar protocol:
- Prewash, water only, 1 minute at 102°F(within +/- 5°F)
- FIRST DEVELOPER, normal time of 6 minutes @ 100.4°F (time based on your own density and color tests)
- 1st Stop Bath, 30 sec to 1 minute at 95°F-105°F
- Water Rinse, 2 minutes at 95°F - 105°°F (removes any acid traces)
- COLOR DEVELOPER, normal time of 6 minutes @ 100.4°F (temp range can run from 100°F to 110°F, but must be kept consistant and based on your color tests. Increasing temp shifts color to Green range). Color Developer can be modified prior to processing by mixing it 20% stronger....thus mix it to 80% of its solution quantity. You can always add more water to dilute it as necessary to modify color.
- 2nd Stop Bath (do NOT interchange these Stop Baths!!!) 30 sec to 1 minute
- Water Rinse, 2 minutes, at 95°F - 105°F
- BLEACH-FIX [BLIX], 10 minutes at 95°F - 105°F range (refer to manufacturer's recommended time/temps)
- Wash, 4 minutes at 95°F - 105°F
- Final Rinse (was Stabilizer Bath) at 30 sec - 1minute, ambient room temp....but best if at 90°F - 100°F range, not critical to do it this way though.
- Dry by hanging on film drying rack in dust free space at room temperature. Gently squeege film using a soft clean film chamois that has been moistened and rung out in the Final Rinse solution. This will help avoid water drying spots; especially if you did not use distilled water to mix up the Final Rinse solution. Can also be blow dryed using a clean hair dryer (purchased ONLY for darkroom use, and best if a filter material is taped over the air input) at the LOW setting, keeping the blow dryer moving back and forth and rotating the film drying rack. When the hair dryer has cooled, store it in a ziplock bag to prevent dust from settling in it. This way it's always clean. Although, I recommend letting the film air dry if at all possible.
Developing film with coffee
It is also possible to develop film with coffee, vitamin-C, soda and fixer. Watch this movie for more details:
develop film with coffee.
super 8 processing labs
Of course there are labs around the world processing super 8 film, here are some (I will add more in the future!):
Education & Workshops
Los Angeles: Echo Park Film Center has workshops in DIY eco-friendly(!) processing.
Updated: 3 September 2021
